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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 03:30 PM
  #41  
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All, FWIW I have run into this before. Some years the trucks used a different inner pinion bearing than what is commonly used in the install kits. The overall bearing and race stack-up is the same, however the bearing itself is shorter.

Like the others have said, always replace the races.
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Old Jun 26, 2017 | 05:06 PM
  #42  
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Well the races were the problem guys, i put the solid spacer in and replaces the races and got the preload i needed. Shes running bad ***! I appreciate the help and all the info 🤘🏽
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 07:37 AM
  #43  
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That's good to hear, glad you got it all figured out
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 12:18 AM
  #44  
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you did get shim out from under that inner bearing on the old pinion and put it on the new pinion under the new inner bearing right? most pinion shims I have seen are .035
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 12:30 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ILuvJDM
I google the Yukon install video that's on YouTube. But after watching a ton of videos I noticed that the proper way to use that wrench for this job is to pull it very evenly (I used one finger) and keep it steady so you can read drag with a slow spin on the yoke. If you just yank on the handle it will fly up in value, but I recommend watching this video to see what I mean

https://youtu.be/lD8QNQATrNs

**** poor worthless video,they didnt crush the sleave,it requires a big *** flange holder and a big *** breaker bar
Funny that he coated the seal area with silicone and then flopped in the out bearing silicone got all over it.Video done by people that do not know what they are doing and have caused problems for those whom may have follow there direction.
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 06:37 AM
  #46  
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I just posted that for a visual on how to use a beam style torque wrench for the resistance reading
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