GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

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Old May 9, 2017 | 07:02 PM
  #11  
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From: Charlotte
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The purpose of a crush sleeve is to collapse so that the correct amount of preload is on the bearings. Your sleeve has not "crushed" and is holding the bearings off the races. I use two 5' bars one to hold the pinion and the other to tighten the nut. It takes as much as 300 foot pounds of torque on the nut to crush the spacer. Be sure to set the bearing preload correctly. It should be set to 19 to 22 inch pounds. This is the amount of torque required to turn the pinion, not the amount of torque on the nut.
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Old May 9, 2017 | 08:24 PM
  #12  
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From: borger tx
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Yes i know that im measuring rotating torque.. lol my inch/pound wrench is telling me im already there. Im right at 20 inch lbs.
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Old May 10, 2017 | 06:54 AM
  #13  
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So you bottom out the threads on the pinion? You can't physically tighten the nut any further? If you have threads left, then you haven't crushed the sleeve. Not all impacts are strong enough to crush the sleeve. I know mine wasn't, so I used angle iron to hold the pinion while I used a cheater bar
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Old May 10, 2017 | 11:23 PM
  #14  
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Yeah all the threads are out.. im usiing a electric millawakee half drive impact, its pretty freaking strong. Lol even my half drive snap on that i can adjust the power on it cant move it, and im running a pretty thick hose with it too.. idk man. Im gonna have to pull it out and take some pics for yall. Ive tried to do it myself with my half drive ratchet and like a 4 ft pipe and it still wasnt doing anything.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 07:53 AM
  #15  
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Originally Posted by Paco Garcia
of course it has the shim under the inner bearing, then crush sleeve... i push it in and slide the outer bearing in, put the yoke on and hammer it on each side to get enough threads, and slide the washer on. I hit the nut with my impact until i feel it get somewhat tight and then check it little by little with the inch/lb wrench.. its one of the cheap auto zone ones so idk if its reading correctly. And thats with the shims between the yoke and outer bearing, theres no way to get the preload without them cause theres not enough threads to keep the nut going.. so idk it should be seated correctly because the yoke feels pretty tight.. so idk why its coming un done. Im following every insruction and detail.
Bet you're using the wrong type!!!
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Old May 12, 2017 | 07:08 PM
  #16  
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It says inch/pounds on it! Its this one
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Old May 12, 2017 | 08:59 PM
  #17  
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Are you getting an initial torque reading on the wrench to get the yoke spinning, then it goes to zero? If so, I had the same issue. I had not crushed the crush washer yet. It was getting the initial drag from the yoke seal, but then once it started to spin, it went to zero drag. If that's what's happening to you, then it's safe to say you haven't begun to crush it yet. They say it takes 3-400ft-lbs to start the crush, but then it goes up very very fast after that
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Old May 12, 2017 | 10:59 PM
  #18  
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Yeah im getting 20 inch pounds when i pull the handle... im thinking i havent crushed the sleeve yet but what has me confused is why the wrench is saying im there already! Unless i have to tighten it and then spin the yoke a little and check it again or something?..
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Old May 12, 2017 | 11:05 PM
  #19  
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So are you saying tighten it up and spin it? Then check again? And keep the process going untill the yoke spins to 20inch pounds with out going to zero?
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Old May 13, 2017 | 06:54 AM
  #20  
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I google the Yukon install video that's on YouTube. But after watching a ton of videos I noticed that the proper way to use that wrench for this job is to pull it very evenly (I used one finger) and keep it steady so you can read drag with a slow spin on the yoke. If you just yank on the handle it will fly up in value, but I recommend watching this video to see what I mean

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