As you can see theyre some what diffrent. Thread length is the same, and the stop where the crush sleeve to the top of is the same. The only thing that concerns me is that the groves have a stop on the stock one and this one doesnt. Also i made a dummie bearing to see where my threads were. Theyre the same. But the yoke is harder to put on the stock one then the aftermarket one. The yoke just slides on and off the aftermarket and the stock i have to hammer it in. Also the dummie bearing didnt fit on yhe stock one. So that means its thicker..

 

Good, that is correct!!!

 

Basically

Tighten the pinion until all horizontal and vertical movement has stopped. Do not use an impact.

Put your in lb tq wrench on it and see where you are. You want the continuous drag reading, NOT the initial drag reading.

Meaning, the reading you get when you continuously spin the pinion without the tires on. This is your preload.

 

Okay so i think i figured out the problem. When i crush the crush sleeve and get the in and out play. I get no preload cause my crush sleeve is too small and my yoke runs out of splines, so the washer and nut arent doing anything.

 

[QUOTE=Paco Garcia;5409641

Okay so i think i figured out the problem. When i crush the crush sleeve and get the in and out play. I get no preload cause my crush sleeve is too small and my yoke runs out of splines, so the washer and nut arent doing anything... ive tried this with that crush sleeve and the dark ones as well. They all measured 5/8s before getting crushed. So idk what i can do. Aftermarket yoke? Crush sleeve eleminator? Or call them back and see what i can get helped on?

 

Order a solid pinion spacer and be done with it, easy to setup and no worries about over torquing it or not torquing it enough

 

+1 on the solid spacer....Its well worth it!

 

Does anyone have any write ups on how to set the spacers up, or videos. Or are they pretty easy?

 

If you're bottoming out the pinion nut before crushing the crush sleeve, then I don't see how a solid spacer will work. Your spacer would need to be longer than what your crush sleeve is in order to not bottom out the threads, and you still wouldn't get any pre-load on the bearings.

Maybe try a new rebuild kit with different bearings? My Yukon kit came with Timken bearings which were taller than the factory bearings. This may help your situation but before tossing money at it, maybe someone else can chime in.

 

One issue we had with my buddies rear was that the new bearing was shorter then the old one, we had to add extra shim underneath the head bearing to bring it to the correct height, I know you said you put shims underneath the head bearing but did you measure the height of the old bearing vs the new one?