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X-link 2.1 (Reduced Engine Power) TPS Nitrous/Magnacharger

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Old 02-01-2009, 10:36 PM
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Default X-link 2.1 (Reduced Engine Power) TPS Nitrous/Magnacharger

I just recently upgraded my 78mm Tb to a TBSS 87mm Tb. I bought the DR X X-link 2.1 and installed it to make the system work on my Magnacharger. I had a Zex wet kit with a WOT wire hooked up the the green wire on the 78mm stock harness and it worked flawlessly previously. I then added the X-link and 87mm Tb and started the truck and started to make a pull on the dyno and when he stabbed it WOT in third the motor went into "Reduced Engine Power" mode. We looked for anything wrong and decided it couldnt hurt to eliminate factors and disconnect the nitrous WOT wire. Ran dyno again and it pulled fine. Got out the TECH 2 and saw that when it was connected the % of the pedal and % of the Blade would be off at higher throttle which trips the "REP" code. I then tried it after the x-link on the green wire and again "REP" code. Is anyone running a WOT wire and using a X-link? Any alternative ways to hook it up?
Old 02-01-2009, 10:51 PM
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Are you tapping the green wire before the converter box on the X-link or after and is Calculated Airflow- P1514/P0068 Error parameters set high enough not to trigger REP.
Old 02-01-2009, 11:11 PM
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Ditto on ensuring that the expected airflow table has been bumped up sufficiently. Might also want to adjust the throttle area scalar to .0158 while you are tuning to minimize the amount of idle learning required.

What DTC's are set?
Old 02-02-2009, 05:23 AM
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I have no problems with idle. Runs 100% without the nitrous wire connected the only problem is when it is connected before or after the X-link to sense WOT it tirggers REP. It is a zex wet kit I might have to just re-program the switch. Ill get the DTC when I start messing with it thanks guys. Was hoping to gain more than 40hp/70trq out of 90mm tb, LT, Full Dual exhuast, 3.4-3.0 pulley. But 410hp/500trq isnt bad with just a supercharger no spray.

Last edited by 03tahoe22; 02-02-2009 at 08:25 AM.
Old 02-02-2009, 08:23 AM
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Adjusting the throttle area scalar for the larger throttle body just cleans things up a bit in the tune. You may not notice the difference in a warmer climate or if you don't have a combination that makes idle tuning more difficult (e.g. cam swap). This is not related to the issue you are having.

When REP is triggered the related Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) will be stored in the PCM. Those may give us a clue as to what is going on.

It doesn't matter where you tap into the green wire as it is not connected to the X-Link. The wire is just routed through the box.

Here is a troubleshooting checklist(also attached) that may help:

GM Electronic Throttle Troubleshooting With the X-Link Installed

For all error conditions: first check that all connectors are secure and dry at the throttle body, TAC module and pedal assembly, ensure that the battery is fully charged, check for damaged wiring/insulation, check for shorts anywhere in the throttle control system wiring, ensure that the PCM is loaded with the proper calibration for the vehicle or installed powertrain
Also ensure that the pink wires on the X-Link are cut** if you are using a car-style 90mm throttle body.

Additional Checks for Specific Throttle-Related Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s)
P1516- Check for the throttle blade sticking/rubbing at any point in its travel, check for internal intermittent breaks in the brown and yellow wires to the throttle body, ensure that the two pink wires on the X-Link have not been cut if you are using the truck-style 90mm throttle body(black plastic side cover brass-colored throttle blade)
P1518- Check engine grounds, ensure a good ground to the firewall
P0120 with P0220- see: “For all error conditions” above
P0220 alone- Check X-Link- test resistance between the same colored leads on the two connectors of the X-Link: Solid Black to Solid Black, Green to Green, Yellow to Yellow, and Brown to Brown should all be equal and near 0 ohms, Grey to Grey should be 118 ohms if the pink wires are cut, 34 ohms if not cut, Purple to Purple should be 19.3 Kohms
P2135- sets whenever the TPS1 and TPS2 signals disagree, investigation should be based on the accompanying DTC’s

If no faults are found after the preceding checks, the throttle body or TAC module may be defective.
**We have encountered 1 or 2 car-style (all aluminum construction) 90mm throttle bodies that appear to behave more like the truck-style throttle bodies. In these cases, if the pink wires on the X-Link are cut, then the throttle blade will attempt to open too far and a DTC will set as you approach wide open throttle, triggering Reduced Engine Power (REP) mode. A normal car-style throttle body will work with or without the pink wires cut, but maximum opening will be slightly reduced if the wires are not cut.
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Old 02-02-2009, 08:30 AM
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P2135- sets whenever the TPS1 and TPS2 signals disagree, investigation should be based on the accompanying DTC’s. This is what was happening and showing up on the TECH 2.
Old 02-02-2009, 08:47 AM
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Get a list of all of the stored DTCs.
Old 02-02-2009, 02:50 PM
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P15160 "Intake manifold Runner control input error Bank 1 (see p2014)" Came up once but not consistent
P2135 "Throttle/Pedel Position Sensor/Switch A/B Voltage.
I relearned the throttle curve again "second time" and I think it worked no codes must have been a electronic clitch but I have not yet used the system because I need a new serpentine belt since the truck ripped 4 of the six ribs off of it. Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by 03tahoe22; 02-02-2009 at 06:03 PM.
Old 02-02-2009, 06:07 PM
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i had a problem very similar to this. using the car style t-body solved this. if you search you will find others that also had this problem trying to use the truck t-body.
Old 02-02-2009, 06:33 PM
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I cant use the car style tb only because i have the joe gibbs carbon fiber magnacharger engine cover and it is custom molded and the ls2 tb sticks out to far to the left. thanks for the suggestions.


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