if you have not checked for all possible mechanical issues, then you need to take some time to do so. After that quit messing around with mail order calibrations, and get that truck to a dyno and have it tuned proplerly. You are wasteing your time with any other action at this point.....and risking possible engine damage.

Mail Ordering is for brides and steaks, not tunes.

without going back and reading this entire thread....what balancer are you using? Stock I hope.

 

I am using the stock balancer, 2 Metco 100mm idler pulleys, 200amp Alternator. So far I have replaced the FPR, I checked the bypass actuator, pinned the crank pulley, retorqued the the intake bolts. The only thing I havent done is pull the Radix off and check the gaskets. As far as the whine I can hear a slight whine when I drove around to do the log but I do not want to get on it until I figure out the KR. So basically I am saying I dont really know if I still have a low boost issue at this point. I know what you are saying about the Dyno Tune but I got talked into buying EFI Live so I could send Jesse the logs and he could get my tune right on. Thanks Guys.

 

You got the Metco pulleys? nice, they are sweet

I sure wish you lived closer, it's so hard to troubleshoot over the net.

anyway, I see nothing in your sig that would cause problems as far as mods go.

that leaves 2 possible problems in my mind

1. something was installed incorrectly
2. something is faulty

lol, I know that is very general, but thats how I see it. Start at one end and work your way through your mods one at a time to ensure they are correct.
Sometimes tracking down gremlins takes longer than the install. Keep at it though, you will eventually find it

 

Thanks man, I am looking. This 3 day weekend will give me alot of time to look.

 

Brian PM sent

 

Here's an idea, and you don't have to wait for Jesse. EFILive has bi-directional controls. Open them up in the scan tool, then connect to your truck. Open the fuel tab, and check the AFR box, this gives you manual control over the commanded air/fuel mixture. You can do this while the truck is idling. Decrease the target AFR (increase the amount of fuel commanded) until you see 11.5 on your wideband. Then take it for a spin and see if you still get KR in the same places (make sure you keep a close eye on that wideband, at this time you have set AFR manually and the PCM is not reading it's own fueling tables). That should tell you if your tune needs to be richened up.

 

sorry for the hijacking here but do you have any pics of the metco pulleys?

btw, i hope you get your boost issue figured out. i'm rooting for you!

 

Yea I can get you a picture, no problem. I just have to get my camera from work.

 

Update, Dr X has been helping me with the tune and it is getting better. I am wondering why Jesse@wait4me used a vin # from a 2000 camaro to tune my 02 pcm? Shouldnt he use a 2002 Silverado vin # ? Also it doesnt look like he deleted my EGR, how do I check if he did? I went driving around and did some logging tonight and it still shows about 8.0 deg of KR after the 1-2, 2-3 shift and then goes back down to 0 after the shifts? I was wondering if my torque convertor has anything to do with that. Dr X has been more helpful in the last couple days than Jesse ever has. I know, I know, mail order is only good for brides and steaks, not tunes. Oh well, Let me know what you think. Thanks.

 

When deleting an EGR, the timing map needs to be reduced in the cruise rpm cells. Reduced a bunch I might add. The Camaro vin has me worried. Is there any way you could put the original Magnusson tune back in and start again from there?

Richard