I'm betting that the cam isn't what you think it is, even if PatG supposedly spec'd it out.

 

Like I said, I'm open to any suggestions.
I've never had a bad cam from comp that didn't perform like it was supposed to, spec'd or not.
What do you mean, the cam isn't what I think it is?
A bad grind or not spec'd out correctly, or ground incorrectly?

Saying a cam isn't spec'd out correctly from PatG is a long shot!
Even if it was spec'd a little differently than the next guy, it's still close enough to make decent boost.
Saying a cam wasn't cut right from comp is kind of a long shot too, I've only heard of one other case and never personally ran into this.

Which one are you referring to?

I know it's installed correctly.

keep them coming guys, the truck feels a ton better around 7psi, but 12 would be nice.

 

I was thinking along the lines of 'boxed wrong' rather that 'cut wrong.' But since we're on the subject of the cam, what are the specs?

Since you say that you know it's installed correctly, I assume that means your shop installed it, not the customer, right?

 

I've got no usefull suggestions but if you want to do an experiment see what happens if you reduce the exhuast size temporarily. It's been posted alot that boost is a measure of resistance so you and Jon can dress up as mythbusters for a day. And make sure it has a alternator and battery. LOL

 

If we were in the ballpark of our boost goal i'd be satisfied with it, but this engine is barely working.
i don't have any time to be playing around, hahhaha.

 

224/230
.612/.612
116 LSA


ya, we installed it.

 

I calculated the valve overlap at -5. Not the best in the world but I don't think its the cam.

 

Think about it... if it was the cam, do you think that boost would increase when he messed with the bypass? Nope, it's s faulty bypass imo

 

Same specs I have for my cam and same pulley size. I'm making 16psi with a 370 so I would say your cam is fine.

 

-5 overlap should be just fine..