Also I'd like to add... when i spray meth it makes my intake tube cold, but also the blower itself colt to the touch. Granted I know my situation is different because the meth isnt exposed to much heat until it hits the blower... but still. My meth sprays a solid 18" from the blower inlet.

The brass fitting by the filter is my Meth.

 

i have the card type MAF/IAT, how would i spray the Meth ?
after the card ?

 

You don't want to spray meth on your MAF... so Yes. You could always separate out the IAT sensor but the easy answer is probably to play with the IAT timing tables to make sure they wont effect you too much as your actual IAT's will be much lower.

 

I've thought about direct port a lot for my set up. It just gets extremely expensive after buying 8 nozzles, plumbing, act. Running 8 small nozzles would probably be the best option for me. I realize the air is traveling super fast through the intake and won't have that much time to pick up heat but it still will. How much, I don't know. I think of it like sticking your hand in the oven for a quick second. You don't get burned but the heat is still transferred pretty quickly. I'd like to take advantage of that heat and the hot surfaces in the intake, runner and cylinder by letting the evaporation/atomization take place there. Testing this would be super cool. I'd heat the intake up to 180* or so and some how push air through it at a set speed that might be seen at 5000 rpm or so. Then you could see what the methanol looks like coming out of each runner and see where the weak spots are.


This is the logic that I am completely against. No offense obviously . Stand in front of a shop fan or something that can move a lot of air and feel the temperature. Now use a squirt bottle or something to mist water on you while standing in the same place. The air feels ice cold when in actuality it isn't at all. Same thing with the IAT sensor. I'd MUCH rather get the actual, or close to, temperature of the incoming air than that super false reading you get when misting yourself in front of the fan. I'd rather see the 220* incoming air reading while in boost than some false wet reading. That is why I tune my truck. Obviously I would know my truck could handle the 220*-300* IAT without detonation because of what is happening post sensor. So the IAT timing table would represent that.

Also I see your intake tube getting cold because you are spraying the methanol onto the tube itself letting it puddle. This is another reason why I like the large opening of the metal intake better than the small intake tube. There will still be some pudding in the intake but not nearly as much. You have to see that your intake tube is not ever going to be very hot since you are sucking fresh outside air through it. So if your intake tube is always at or very close to ambient temp, and you spray methanol directly on it, you don't get that evaporation that I would with my hot intake through the snout, and runners. Its like spraying brake clean on the ambient floor. It will puddle and won't evaporate like brake clean should. But if you spray brake clean on a hot rotor, it evaporates immediately. Another reason I see the intake being a good place to spray. Really the only downside I see at spraying where I plan to is even distribution like stated earlier. But again, I haven't seen anyone complain or have issues with it. I've done a lot of research but maybe I am just typing the wrong words in my googler.

 

As far as direct port.
You don't have to have 8 nozzles.
You could get 1/8x 3/16 compression.
And use nitrous jets. Think dry nitrous but using cheap fittings and methanol.

 

Hrmmmm. I wonder what the methanol would look like coming out of those jets. That's something I haven't thought about.

 

So are saying that when something (gas or liquid) is at high pressure (200-250psi pump output) then it drops suddenly to 5-15psi (intake tube pressure), the temperature of that liquid/gas will not drop? The completely violates the Ideal Gas Law...


The flaw in your logic here is your comparing the output of a brake clean (20-30psi) and a large orifice to the output of a meth pump (200-250) and and orifice 100x smaller. OF course the brake clean is going to puddle. Given the nozzle size and pressure the meth is vaporized, combine that with the insane amount airflow from the turbo going through the intake tube..

 

I don't see what your saying here. I'm not talking about the pressure or temperature of the methanol itself. I'm talking about spraying liquid methanol on the sensor itself causing really cold readings like spraying water on your face in front of a fan. Maybe I don't understand what you are saying here.


That was just a very obvious comparison I was pointing out. I'm not comparing meth to brake cleaner haha. And the pressures and orifice size don't really matter to what I am trying to show here. I guess you can take a methanol nozzle and spray meth on an ambient floor and see what happens. Then spray methanol on a very hot surface and what happens. The methanol will evaporate on the hot surface and not the floor. It's all about making sure the meth hits something that is above its flash point. Obviously air speed isn't in this comparison that I'm trying to make but it is irrelevant to what I'm saying.

 

I do have 8 small nozzles that are brand new and I would make a good deal. I was going to post up some stuff for sale soon, and that was part of it. I also have a meth kit I will be selling.

 

I think your missing how METH actually works. A properly working system, sprays at such a high pressure and the nozzle is so small it should evaporate instantly after it leaves the nozzle... If the nozzle is too big and the pressure is low, yes it will puddle, but ideally it evaporates, thus dropping the air temps...