That's good to know. Were they just cracking by the welds due to a lower quality steel or craftsmanship?

 

The answer is both. If you're trying to go cheaper then I'd probably suggest going with the kb hotside and ordering the 'denmah' kit from vsracing and piecing everything together from there

on3 kit with 78/75 is like what 2100?

kbracing hotside 1450(he might even do better than that just going off website)

Denmah kit with 78/75 upgrade about 950 or some **** like that. Comes with turbo, ic/wg/bov/ drain lines.

So we're at 2400 for that


300 dollar difference for a quality hotside which is what's really important and china rest of the other **** which doesn't matter that much.

Not worth it imo to get the on3 kit. Also if you're building a turbo truck and 300 dollars seems like alot of money I got news buddy....


edit: A little insight; I tried saving a little money and getting one of those cheap kits from one of the texas truck shops thinking I'd get ahead. Wrong. After adding everything up I saved under 150 dollars, still havn't gotten my kit after 3x the promised wait time, never get replies from builders and I realistically see myself getting completely bent over when this deal is over with.... At the end of the day what you'll save is pennies in the grand scheme of the build. Save yourself the headache and go with something proven

 

The fact that you use the words mileage, turbo, 8" lift, and 35's in the same sentence is comical. Oh and On3 too. Forums are fantastic!!! You can sit on your *** with a tall can and spend an hour reading posts about all the headaches guys have gone through so you don't have to. One thing that dawned on me was the high number of guys who sell their turbo trucks. Parts selection is so crucial in the overall success of the build. The goal is to build, tune, enjoy. Not build, slam your head against the floor, then sell out of frustration.

 

I'll definitely look into that! $300 more for the peace of mind of a better quality setup is definitely worth it.

 

I'm not out to build a race truck or anything. I enjoy how my truck looks lifted on the tires. I want some more power, a little more of a wow factor to show off, and if I can get a few more miles per gallon out of it at the same time I'd be ecstatic! I'm going to keep looking into other kits for sure. You guys have been giving some great input! I really appreciate it!

 

More power AND more MPG. Lol sign me up.

on3 is chinese trash. Support forum sponsors and good USA built products: KBracing.

 

Can everyone here grasp the concept of having more power and getting better mpg's when the engine isn't under load? Or is everyone's tuner just adding a percentage over the entire fuel table and calling it good? If the pcm can still still adjust STFT and LTFT, then it shouldn't run too much richer than 14.7:1 at cruising speeds. With increased air and fuel at the same load the engine shouldn't work as hard to keep moving the same speed, therefore without a change in driving habits, mpg's should increase some.

 

The only way that you will gain mpg is to decrease the displacement of your engine. Just like ecoboost engines are smaller. Other car manufacturers also are looking at or already making cars with smaller engines that are turbocharged to maintain power and increase economy.
Your line of thinking is completely wrong. If you think you are going to cruise while in boost and save fuel, you are wrong. The best you can do is maintain stock mpg while cruising, only if the kPa during cruise remains the same as stock. If the kPa (pressure) is higher, you must add fuel to maintain stoich.

 

In fact, your own statement proves that you are thinking fantastically: "With increased air and fuel at the same load"
Increased fuel
Increased air and fuel at the same load indicates decreased efficiency.

 

I know what you are thinking, that the engine will cruise more effortlessly, but that will only be true if you are cruising in boost.