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Not enough injector for the ProCharger...

Old Jul 9, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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Default Not enough injector for the ProCharger...

After getting a new air intake in place and the surge valve venting to atmosphere I took it to the dyno, figured I gotta crawl before I walk...walk before I run, right?
Ran a 296rwhp/380tq...A/F started to climb so I backed out of it.
Checked inline booster pump...working
Checked fuel pressure @ idle...50#
Went back to file that cablebandit saved of run to check duty cycle...100%
Not enough injector with stock injectors...whodathunkit? ...I've been in denial...
Cablebandit pointed out that the fuel rail has a 1:1 regulator on it. So what good is the FMU doing when I don't have enough injector anyway?
FMU...gone! It's in the tool box now.
I'll keep my foot out of it until I get some injectors in...then we'll see what she can do...
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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a after market regulator and a good set of 42 lbs injectors can make a world of difference.
so far every book I have read on moding our motors with a turbo or a supercharger.
2 things remained constant a regulator to set the fuel pressure to 80 psi and a set of 42 lbs injectors.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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You deffinitly need a set of 42's with no FMU. The stock regulator will handle the fuel pressure for you.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Here's the dyno sheet...

I believe that their A/F was off, because HP Tuners was showing only a couple of degrees of KR and as soon as it began to climb, cablebandit tapped me to back out...as high it was showing, I think that I would have imploded...
Attached Thumbnails Not enough injector for the ProCharger...-blower-truck.jpg  
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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should be getting the 44#'s soon...should'nt I get some new o-rings for these since they're used injectors?
If so, where and what size?
Anything else?
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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Yes I know when I put my 38's on my truck it was like a night and day difference in power. I was blowing the tips slap off the stock Inj. which caused me to get a new motor after washing the rings. You will really fill a difference with the 44's and should put you in the 400 rwhp range with a good tune.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Superado
should be getting the 44#'s soon...should'nt I get some new o-rings for these since they're used injectors?
If so, where and what size?
Anything else?
I am not sure if the O-Rings will need to be changed but the ones from the dealer should work if you cannot find another source. Make sure to put a little vaseline on them before you install the injectors.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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o-rings will be fine. You dont want 80psi of fuel pressure. Some injectors will lock up at that high of fuel pressure. Dont worry, the 44# injectors...stock regulator and we will have you rockin and rollin!!!!
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 08:44 AM
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upgraded injectors are in...but...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

...KR is kicking in at or around 3900 rpm...

many thanks to cablebandit for his help and use of Mableton Speed & Performance

we (cablebandit w/ me watching) couldn't tune it out either...

no matter what adjustments were made to fuel or timing, the KR would kick in and begin to rise...

we believe that stock fuel pump and ProCharger supplied in-line pump are not keeping up...injector DC was at like 68%

thoughts...opinions...ideas?

p.s. does anyone have any experience(s) w/ TRE Performance? ...looking at their fuel pumps...

...in-cab FP & wide-band gauges are definitely high on the priority list now...

Last edited by Superado; Sep 11, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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from ls1tech thread:
Originally Posted by kp
If you cant tune it out by making it rich or really dropping timing it may not be 'real' knock. I turned my knock sensors off long ago, forged pistond rattle, valvetrain noise, exhaust hitting etc can set them off. if you are only at 68% and your a/f is rich enough (11.5-12.5) and you dont have crazy timing (21-24* at 4000rpm or so is OK) then I would try some better fuel like 104 unleaded and see if it goes away - if it doest you can make them less sensitive. I havent had knock sensors on my car in 2 years, I just use good gas and a reasonable tune.

It could be knocking though, 4000rpm really isnt the spot it should be rattling, it has low boost and you wont see max torque until ~5200rpm or so with a D1. Just approach the whole thing with caution - better safe then sorry
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