FORCED INDUCTION Turbos | Superchargers | Intercoolers | H2O/Meth Injection

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Old 07-05-2022, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Modern Barbarian
I missed that you had the boost a pump. That and the 340 will get it just fine. if your supercharger is anything like mine (working with the LSA) then you will probably have to pull it. My injectors and coils were so close together I had to modify the coil brackets to drop them a half inch further down the valve cover just to be able to plug everything in. Even though it may be hard, doing it right is better than not doing it.
yeah it’s gonna be the passenger side that’s may require me to have to remove the headunit. I’ll have to do a further inspection but I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to. It’s really tight and not much room to work there
Old 07-06-2022, 07:07 AM
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I used these in 2005 Turbo trucks and it fits the bucket fine. Put down over 670hp with them on regular 93 octane
And no you dont have a FPCM in a 2005.

https://deatschwerks.com/collections...cts/9-401-1046
Old 07-06-2022, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TorqueBT
no boost gauge yet but I definitely need/want one. My 60’ was 2.3
Truck runs pretty good but this is what I see wrong for your existing hp as it sits. My heavy pig that's about the same weight loaded with parts and tools can cut a 1.9. stock with 3.42's. However it's 4wd and 6L80 stock converter and tires. Work on the 60 imho.
Old 07-06-2022, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TorqueBT
i just wanted a little extra power to play around with otw to work, nothing too serious.
Originally Posted by TorqueBT
this ain’t my first rodeo brother. This is my 8th supercharged vehicle. I’ve been modding vehicles since the early 2000’s. I’m at a stage in my life where I don’t need all the extremities, just a little extra power that a supercharger on a stock vehicle can bring. I could easily go all out with heads/cam, built engine, full exhaust, converter, built trans, etc but I’m content with just a blower install.
...
Originally Posted by TorqueBT
before I do anymore mods, my tuner wants me to beef up my fuel system which is understandable but I’m not trying to put that much into the truck to begin with. Just more parts I’ll have to remove if I decide to sell. I want to add a NW 102, 2/3 bar map sensor or LPF 100 mm maf, and a smaller pulley. My tuner wants me to add dual pumps and injectors and he’ll tune me SD. I’m still contemplating all of it
yep - i'm also having a hard time following your truck plans, too.

but he's right - letting more air in when it ain't got nowhere to go while also maxing out your fuel supply is a fruitless effort because your stock TB will outflow the stock exhaust, and feeding more air without enough injector/pump is a recipe for leaning out with your foot in it.

if you really want a new TB, a 90mm is more than enough & will save some cash for other helpful bits (i'm making almost 700whp with a 90mm on my TVS2300 LS1)... but i'd recommend headers first. especially with the BaP, some Siemens 60s will be more than enough injector (ain't familiar enough with the Whipple design to confirm whether you have to pull the whole head unit or just rails). if you're getting into top end, i'd suggest a little higher compression (around 10:1) since you say you don't want to get crazy. that'll require less boost (and resulting heat) to make the same power & have better part-throttle response + more efficiency.

pro tip, a Cobalt SS MAP sensor should work for you.
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Old 07-06-2022, 10:12 PM
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He’s an experienced professional. Don’t tell him what he should do because he’s done it. He only wants people that have a supercharged LS to chime in since only they can relate to him and only they know what to do even though literally everyone on this board has told him the same ******* thing in multiple threads.
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Old 07-07-2022, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bgbldodge
He’s an experienced professional. Don’t tell him what he should do because he’s done it. He only wants people that have a supercharged LS to chime in since only they can relate to him and only they know what to do even though literally everyone on this board has told him the same ******* thing in multiple threads.

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Old 07-07-2022, 01:31 AM
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gotta spend money to make money. Got the QFS 340 in just awhile ago. It idled fine so I’ll fill her up when I wake up and cross my fingers that it’ll be at least a small improvement of the stock pump with bap. I took the bap off also. Before I put the QFS in, I had the Aeromotive 340 in and twice it shut off on me. It would idle for able 30 seconds and then die. Had to cut a hole in the bottom of the bucket because the QFS 340 I had, had the oversized pickup port that wouldn’t fit into the stock position. So I installed a filter sock on the bottom of the basket and connected it to the bottom of the 340
Old 07-09-2022, 11:06 AM
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How is the launch? Any wheel hop or bucking? That will seriously hurt your 60 ft time, and so your ET will suffer. Any energy going into the suspension is not contributing to pushing you forward.
Old 07-09-2022, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by YukonJack
How is the launch? Any wheel hop or bucking? That will seriously hurt your 60 ft time, and so your ET will suffer. Any energy going into the suspension is not contributing to pushing you forward.

the launch starts out promising but ends up as you stated, hopping and bucking off the line, essentially slaughtering my 60’ because I’m trying to hold it steady and not crash into the wall while trying to win my races. I’m not really sure why it does that though. I’m thinking it’s either my worn out suspension or an over abundance of torque or a combination of both. The autoride rear air shocks went out last year so I just removed the fuse to disable the mil on the dash. I had a huge car audio system in it before the whipple adding about half a ton of gear in the truck. Riding around like that most likely prematurely wore out the rear air shocks. I’ve tried everything to improve my launch, including running with only a quarter tank of fuel to remove weight.

my launch prep is basically brake boosting to an unknown rpm, 1/4 tank or fuel, disable traction control, leaving off last yellow light, moving seat closer to steering wheel, no burnout (awd) and stay in it until the finish line.

i removed the airaid tb spacer. You guys were probably right that’s it’s not needed in my boosted setup and possibly hindering intake flow.

i couldn’t get either 340 fuel pump to work, the Aeromotive or the QFS. The aeromotive keep shutting down after idling for about a minute and the qfs showed me dropping steadily lean as the rpm’s climbed, so I reinstalled the Oreillys house brand, MasterPro back in with the bap. I have the aem afr gauge and I know it’s not the most accurate but it’s the only gauge I have, so I have to trust it. I have the gauge plumbed on the passenger side bank but I feel that’s better than plumbing it further downstream after the cats.

Last edited by TorqueBT; 07-09-2022 at 10:03 PM.
Old 07-10-2022, 11:03 AM
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Boosted setups can do the bucking due to toe in of the front wheels. It unloads the front end then the rear. I actually 60 better leaving at idle because of this on my work truck. My 07 was extremely violent and would try to change lanes with stock suspension but still managed a 1.69 incredibly with turbo. You could pm Atomic for some tips as he knows how to improve or eliminate this. Hope this helps.


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