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Making a MP112 run cooler.

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Old May 20, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
^thats a pretty sweet setup

Similar question to this topic, would it be advantageous to run a larger coolant capacity? I was thinking it would in the beginning since there is more cool fluid, but the longer you are running the hotter it is going to get. This also means it is harder to cool since there is a lot more fluid.

Thoughts?
Adding a larger coolant reservoir would not help in cooling. The larger HEX is so effective in radiating the heat you don't need a reservoir at all. I just use the one supplied by Magnuson. Anytime I order a Maggie I always have them leave out the HEX and pump. Their pump only flows 5gpm. I've done my research with a supercharging engineer and he told me that you have to have at least 13gpm to cool a 600hp (crank HP) supercharged engine.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by trever1t
Very nice Xchanger setup BadV10!

This has been discussed quite a bit. With the larger exchanger I cool down faster. A faster pump will not allow the coolant to give off it's heat. More coolant (larger tank) will take longer to heat but will retain heat longer. The big radiator above combined with the right flow will work well due to it's massive surface area.
Thanks Trever. I've done a lot of research on this. This all started with my 2009 ZR1 and it's major heat soak problem. This was at it's factory 638hp. I increased the power to 900hp and really had to address the intercooler problem. The factory pump only pumps out 9gpm. Not enough. You need at least 13gpm to effectively cool the factory 638hp accompanied by a larger HEX. A pump alone will not do anything. The HEX that came with my ZR1 is the same dinky size that Magnuson supplies for my Escalade. 6" x 20" x 7/8" thick. Obviously not large enough for the power made. I worked with an engineer that specializes in cooling systems for supercharged/turbo'd engines. He told me you need at least 13gpm to cool 600 crank HP. So on my supercharged Escalade, GMC sierra Denali, and ZR1 I installed a 20gpm pump and much larger HEXs that I designed. They do such an effective job, you don't even need a reservoir, so I just keep the Magnuson reservoir in place. Also, you MUST use a water/water wetter solution with no glycol (antifreeze). Antifreeze will actually make the temperature rise due to its ineffectiveness to dissipate heat effectively like a water/water wetter solution does.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Bad V10
Thanks Trever. I've done a lot of research on this. This all started with my 2009 ZR1 and it's major heat soak problem. This was at it's factory 638hp. I increased the power to 900hp and really had to address the intercooler problem. The factory pump only pumps out 9gpm. Not enough. You need at least 13gpm to effectively cool the factory 638hp accompanied by a larger HEX. A pump alone will not do anything. The HEX that came with my ZR1 is the same dinky size that Magnuson supplies for my Escalade. 6" x 20" x 7/8" thick. Obviously not large enough for the power made. I worked with an engineer that specializes in cooling systems for supercharged/turbo'd engines. He told me you need at least 13gpm to cool 600 crank HP. So on my supercharged Escalade, GMC sierra Denali, and ZR1 I installed a 20gpm pump and much larger HEXs that I designed. They do such an effective job, you don't even need a reservoir, so I just keep the Magnuson reservoir in place. Also, you MUST use a water/water wetter solution with no glycol (antifreeze). Antifreeze will actually make the temperature rise due to its ineffectiveness to dissipate heat effectively like a water/water wetter solution does.
yikes, maybe thats why my heat exchanger setup kind of sucks, im using half antifreeze half water with a 1.5 gallon or so tank and the stock pump and heat exchanger. looks like the easiest thing to do is try just water/water wetter instead of antifreeze.

ive always thought about dropping some dry ice into the big tank to help with the coolant temp at the track, just enough to get it cold but not freeze it since I have seen +80F from ambient at the end of a run.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
yikes, maybe thats why my heat exchanger setup kind of sucks, im using half antifreeze half water with a 1.5 gallon or so tank and the stock pump and heat exchanger. looks like the easiest thing to do is try just water/water wetter instead of antifreeze.

ive always thought about dropping some dry ice into the big tank to help with the coolant temp at the track, just enough to get it cold but not freeze it since I have seen +80F from ambient at the end of a run.
+80F?
On my Escalade, which has a 6.2l engine with a ZR1 cam, CNC'd LS3 heads, headers and a TVS 1900 with a 2.8" pulley, I've done 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile runs and my water temp preintercooler is never 3 to 4 degrees above ambient temp because the larger HEX and pump is so effective.
The next thing I'm going to work on is doing away with all that and replacing the intercooler, built into the Maggie, with an A/C evaperator. Now it will be like driving around in wintertime.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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that sure would be nice. im usually at +20 from ambient just driving around out of boost.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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I have wondered if you could increase the size of the 112 IC core inside the intake to the size of the TVS ones???
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Old May 20, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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Where in central Texas are you located?
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Old May 20, 2010 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Where in central Texas are you located?
Austin.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Id like to come check your setup out one of these days, Im up off Parmer Ln.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Any of you guys running the Snow kit or an alternative as another way of cooling the S/C?#7
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