Making a MP112 run cooler.
#11
^thats a pretty sweet setup
Similar question to this topic, would it be advantageous to run a larger coolant capacity? I was thinking it would in the beginning since there is more cool fluid, but the longer you are running the hotter it is going to get. This also means it is harder to cool since there is a lot more fluid.
Thoughts?
Similar question to this topic, would it be advantageous to run a larger coolant capacity? I was thinking it would in the beginning since there is more cool fluid, but the longer you are running the hotter it is going to get. This also means it is harder to cool since there is a lot more fluid.
Thoughts?
#12
Very nice Xchanger setup BadV10!
This has been discussed quite a bit. With the larger exchanger I cool down faster. A faster pump will not allow the coolant to give off it's heat. More coolant (larger tank) will take longer to heat but will retain heat longer. The big radiator above combined with the right flow will work well due to it's massive surface area.
This has been discussed quite a bit. With the larger exchanger I cool down faster. A faster pump will not allow the coolant to give off it's heat. More coolant (larger tank) will take longer to heat but will retain heat longer. The big radiator above combined with the right flow will work well due to it's massive surface area.
#13
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Thanks Trever. I've done a lot of research on this. This all started with my 2009 ZR1 and it's major heat soak problem. This was at it's factory 638hp. I increased the power to 900hp and really had to address the intercooler problem. The factory pump only pumps out 9gpm. Not enough. You need at least 13gpm to effectively cool the factory 638hp accompanied by a larger HEX. A pump alone will not do anything. The HEX that came with my ZR1 is the same dinky size that Magnuson supplies for my Escalade. 6" x 20" x 7/8" thick. Obviously not large enough for the power made. I worked with an engineer that specializes in cooling systems for supercharged/turbo'd engines. He told me you need at least 13gpm to cool 600 crank HP. So on my supercharged Escalade, GMC sierra Denali, and ZR1 I installed a 20gpm pump and much larger HEXs that I designed. They do such an effective job, you don't even need a reservoir, so I just keep the Magnuson reservoir in place. Also, you MUST use a water/water wetter solution with no glycol (antifreeze). Antifreeze will actually make the temperature rise due to its ineffectiveness to dissipate heat effectively like a water/water wetter solution does.
ive always thought about dropping some dry ice into the big tank to help with the coolant temp at the track, just enough to get it cold but not freeze it since I have seen +80F from ambient at the end of a run.
#14
yikes, maybe thats why my heat exchanger setup kind of sucks, im using half antifreeze half water with a 1.5 gallon or so tank and the stock pump and heat exchanger. looks like the easiest thing to do is try just water/water wetter instead of antifreeze.
ive always thought about dropping some dry ice into the big tank to help with the coolant temp at the track, just enough to get it cold but not freeze it since I have seen +80F from ambient at the end of a run.
ive always thought about dropping some dry ice into the big tank to help with the coolant temp at the track, just enough to get it cold but not freeze it since I have seen +80F from ambient at the end of a run.
On my Escalade, which has a 6.2l engine with a ZR1 cam, CNC'd LS3 heads, headers and a TVS 1900 with a 2.8" pulley, I've done 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile runs and my water temp preintercooler is never 3 to 4 degrees above ambient temp because the larger HEX and pump is so effective.
The next thing I'm going to work on is doing away with all that and replacing the intercooler, built into the Maggie, with an A/C evaperator. Now it will be like driving around in wintertime.