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Made a couple of Radix alterfications

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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 12:24 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
once we clear the dyno of the current projects I will get my truck on there. Hopefully next week.
Dyno's aside, your truck was pulling like a **** on Saturday, not only was it powerfull, it was extremely responsive as well. I was impressed.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 01:45 PM
  #42  
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Changing the topic some, what are the signs of spinning the crank pulley on the crank? Is there an audible noise that usually occurs when it happens?

I had a heck of a time getting the pulley off the crank, like it was welded on. I broke my 3-jaw puller twice before getting the pulley off. When I got it off, I found marks on the crank indicating the pulley had been spinning on the crank. The last time I drove it hard was on the dyno a couple months back. I assume it spun, got real hot, and made it difficult to remove.

I have a feeling thats why my powerband fell off on the dyno as the rpms climbed. I know for a fact that it used to pull harder past 6000rpms than it does now. MAF flow #s are lower in the upper rpms than they used to be as well. My power stopped climbing in the low 5000 rpm range. The dynos posted above have power still increasing at 6500 rpms.

Regardless, I'm going to pin it before it all goes back together this time.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by BigTex
Changing the topic some, what are the signs of spinning the crank pulley on the crank? Is there an audible noise that usually occurs when it happens?

I had a heck of a time getting the pulley off the crank, like it was welded on. I broke my 3-jaw puller twice before getting the pulley off. When I got it off, I found marks on the crank indicating the pulley had been spinning on the crank. The last time I drove it hard was on the dyno a couple months back. I assume it spun, got real hot, and made it difficult to remove.

I have a feeling thats why my powerband fell off on the dyno as the rpms climbed. I know for a fact that it used to pull harder past 6000rpms than it does now. MAF flow #s are lower in the upper rpms than they used to be as well. My power stopped climbing in the low 5000 rpm range. The dynos posted above have power still increasing at 6500 rpms.

Regardless, I'm going to pin it before it all goes back together this time.

Sounds like that you have some issues there. I would highly suggest you pin it if you plan to spin that motor in the 6000+ range.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BigTex
Changing the topic some, what are the signs of spinning the crank pulley on the crank? Is there an audible noise that usually occurs when it happens?

I had a heck of a time getting the pulley off the crank, like it was welded on. I broke my 3-jaw puller twice before getting the pulley off. When I got it off, I found marks on the crank indicating the pulley had been spinning on the crank. The last time I drove it hard was on the dyno a couple months back. I assume it spun, got real hot, and made it difficult to remove.

I have a feeling thats why my powerband fell off on the dyno as the rpms climbed. I know for a fact that it used to pull harder past 6000rpms than it does now. MAF flow #s are lower in the upper rpms than they used to be as well. My power stopped climbing in the low 5000 rpm range. The dynos posted above have power still increasing at 6500 rpms.

Regardless, I'm going to pin it before it all goes back together this time.
when i walked my bolt out, i couldnt hear anythng different, i would push on the throttle and it would take forever for the truck to start moving.... forward and reverse.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 04:59 PM
  #45  
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Back on subject.
I would like more info on this 90mm throttle body. Did you say it was a plug and play except if you want to add timing to get the full benifit? Any modification to the Radix? will the Radix Air tube still fit?
Please let me know
Mark
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:15 PM
  #46  
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and what about the ssr intake manifold for use n/a or turbo guys will it bolt on??
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 2004Denali
Back on subject.
I would like more info on this 90mm throttle body. Did you say it was a plug and play except if you want to add timing to get the full benifit? Any modification to the Radix? will the Radix Air tube still fit?
Please let me know
Mark

1) Yes there are mods needed to the Radix "J-Tube". You need to either open up the stock J-Tube and figure out how to bolt up the 4 bolt flange, or have a flange made (there is a sponsor doing this now via CNC machine) and have it welded on.

2) Plug and play as long as you get the correct TAC control module and the Speartech Harness. (part numbers in thread later today)

3) The timing is the "extra" added feature of the TB, you have now taken away some of the heat that is generated via the supercharger pumping, so you can add timing (amount of timing will be different between applications)

4) Yes the Radix air tube will still fit, however this becomes the bottle kneck in the system. The air tube is great for "stock", but needs to be made bigger to take full advantage of the 90mm TB.

Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 4.8T
and what about the ssr intake manifold for use n/a or turbo guys will it bolt on??

yes it will! Looks like the cost of a used SSR manifold just went up! Boy I wish I had one right now
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #49  
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Thanks Brian,
I await further comments, This is something I want to do. I was going to order the BBK 80 mm throttle body but I think I will wait for more info on the 90mm. Bigger is better. Which sponsor?
Mark
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #50  
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so its tall enough to not have to do all the crap you need with the ls1 swap and it don't funnel down stays big inside. so is there an easy way to hook up my 8 pin to the 6 pin and doe sit appear the my returnless style fuel rail will fit on this thing. i think this is partialy on topic. or should i start a new one for full intake and tb swap?
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