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Typically we use standard when referring to stuff even though it is supposed to be a metric engine.
As to to the pistons. On an LS engine the pistons usually come out of the hole .003-.008 or so from the factory. Also referenced as above the deck.
Thanks. Most of my VW stuff is in mm, but have no problem converting. I can check the above deck measurement when I check the bearing clearance tomorrow. When I was turning it, I don’t think they cleared though, but wasn’t paying that much attention. Is it possible that it didn’t clear if they lowered the compression by having shorter rods?
And to add on to my novel up there, it seems like the bolts were torqued slightly different. Some broke loose with a gun, others had to be loosened with the jack handle with my feet almost coming off the ground. Head gaskets look inconsistent too.
I’m by no means a professional builder, but I do take my time and this build looks like it was done in a weekend with a case of Modelo.
looks like the head gasket was lifting. Thats the burn marks you see
Thanks. Most of my VW stuff is in mm, but have no problem converting. I can check the above deck measurement when I check the bearing clearance tomorrow. When I was turning it, I don’t think they cleared though, but wasn’t paying that much attention. Is it possible that it didn’t clear if they lowered the compression by having shorter rods?
No, you would not use a shorter rod to adjust compression. More likely, they did not have the block surfaced decked. All piston manufacturers assume you will do this during a rebuild to get a goood gasket seal and will adjust the hieght of the piston accordingly. Also as the bore gets larger they reduce the top of the piston to compensate for compression ratio.
If you look on the back side of the bearings there should a be a brand mark and a size reference. Std would be standard. Stdx would be standard with extra clearance.
.010 would be a .010 larger bearing for an undersized crank that has been machined and so on.
FYI plastigauge is not really very accurate. I have used it in the past but after taking the time to use the proper equipment, I have stopped using it. Even the lower end versions of the correct tools gave better measurements.
If you look on the back side of the bearings there should a be a brand mark and a size reference. Std would be standard. Stdx would be standard with extra clearance.
.010 would be a .010 larger bearing for an undersized crank that has been machined and so on.
FYI plastigauge is not really very accurate. I have used it in the past but after taking the time to use the proper equipment, I have stopped using it. Even the lower end versions of the correct tools gave better measurements.
they are flat top pistons and I believe he said they used slightly shorter rods to lower compression vs using dished pistons. they are king standard bearings. The back side of some of them is kind of beat up too.
The rods themselves don’t look too happy either.
I’ve always heard that about plastiguage, but the builds I’ve used it on wouldn’t have really mattered with small differences. All the other stuff goes to the machine shop.
These look like burn marks were the compression was escaping under high boost. I am not sure if this is the head side or the deck side of the gasket but this is why it is important to make sure everything is flat. A factory block is never flat...
These look like burn marks were the compression was escaping under high boost. I am not sure if this is the head side or the deck side of the gasket but this is why it is important to make sure everything is flat. A factory block is never flat...
is this the part where I tell you this is the 2nd time this block has gone? It’s only bored out because he’s already broken it. He said the machine shop gave it an all clear. The chambers actually didn’t have any cross hatching. Just hatching? Not sure what it’s called but it was only circular.
Every cylinder looks like this.
they are flat top pistons and I believe he said they used slightly shorter rods to lower compression vs using dished pistons. they are king standard bearings. The back side of some of them is kind of beat up too.
The rods themselves don’t look too happy either.
I’ve always heard that about plastiguage, but the builds I’ve used it on wouldn’t have really mattered with small differences. All the other stuff goes to the machine shop.
Yes, those are standard rod bearings. That is the lower bearing from the rod cap. If I had to guess, I would say it was on the tight side for boost depending on the crank measurements.
The transfer to the rod cap is likely from the heat. They should clean up fine.
is this the part where I tell you this is the 2nd time this block has gone? It’s only bored out because he’s already broken it. He said the machine shop gave it an all clear. The chambers actually didn’t have any cross hatching. Just hatching? Not sure what it’s called but it was only circular.
Every cylinder looks like this.
I would never use that machine shop!!! It's not the proper finish hone. You have vertical scratches probably from the rings. Doesn't look like they decked the surface of the block either.
I bet the cylinders are also out of round too...
Hopefully you have a better more qualified machine shop?
I would never use that machine shop!!! It's not the proper finish hone. You have vertical scratches probably from the rings. Doesn't look like they decked the surface of the block either.
I bet the cylinders are also out of round too...
Hopefully you have a better more qualified machine shop?
This was all done in Florida. I’m in Vegas and going to ship it to Cali sometime next week.
Apr 9, 2023 | 11:59 PM
