Well, unfortunately, it looks like a nice pile of garbage you acquired there... Such a shame that some one would spend the money on all that stuff and not take the time or care to assemble it properly.

 

Agreed. Is there a consensus on the acceptable limits of boring on these 3rd gens? Won’t do it unless it’s necessary. Definitely want to save the block if possible and put a really nice rotating assembly in it.

 

People take them out to 4.065 all the time. I would have the machinist look at it and see what the minimum it will go if it needs clean up. You want to maintain as much wall thickness as possible.

If its .020 now, I will probably clean up at .030 unless it has deep marks or is really out of round.

 

since you seem knowledgeable, I have some stuff to run by you. Are some lifters better than others? Trays? Pushrods? I’d like to build this thing back with better parts. I’m considering o-ring’ing the block and heads because there’s a good shop in town that does it. Looking for little things that will help this next build survive 1000hp a few nights a year and 7-800 daily. Plan on driving it ~4000 miles per year. I am not worried about spending a little more money to not pull this engine again. That sucked by myself.

 

You are past lifter trays imo. Link bar is the only way to go now. Johnson lifters. Pushrods are more or less the same.

Skip o-ringing the block and heads.


@1FastBrick I disagree on going all the way out 4.065. That’s kinda thin depending on the boost he wants to run in my opinion. I don’t know if I would feel safe going that far. Gonna be some thin *** walls to be considered a “reliable” 1000HP (if you can even use those two words in the same sentence)
I trust your opinion though…

 

We have several 4.065" 6.0 blocks making 1100hp no problem. But you do run into the possibility of cracking a cylinder. Got some 4.125" bore but they are concrete filled.
Ive had 4.030" bore crack a cylinder on 44psi boost before so its still possible. But Since he is already at 4.020" id sure try to only go 4.030" if he can.

Johnson 2110R lifters work really good with trays but if you just want to go away from trays the Johnson 2116LSR are what we have had good luck with in the race cars that hang out past 8000 rpms. They have a very short window of preload so make sure that is triple checked if you use them.

 

Subscribed for the discussion. Lot's of good advice!🍿

@RDF1 concrete filled?! Can you please share more information on this? Edit: I didn't know this. I need to get out more, LOL. 🤭

 

Haha no problem.
We use this stuff in the Methanol cars.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hnh-860228

Not running any coolant so fill the blocks to the deck and have the deck surfaced after the filler has set.
They claim it helps hold cylinders in place and more strength. When you self destruct a engine tho it makes a huge mess at the track.
A buddy had some popping issues in his 427 and started changing stuff and that last time out he added grounds and new smart coils and it made a very nice pass.. The next time out he turnt it up to kill and killed it all right. 52psi and 9200 rpms it left pistons, rods, block filler, starter, peices of the block, even ripped the diaper off the pan.
Tore it down and the block filler was still attached to the back of cylinders on the driver bank so it sticks in there pretty good.

 

@RDF1 You’re tellin me you didn’t just go pick up Quikrete at Home Depot and dump it in there?

 

Haha not this time. That stuff is too dusty to use in a clean room.