and by the time the chiller kit was working, i had over $3k into it (almost twice what an exhaust would run you - regardless of whether you band-clamped or welded it).

 

My personal experience with the Killer Chiller/Interchiller (It was actually the Interchiller on a car I tuned):

Works GREAT for lowering IAT's. I was seriously impressed with the IAT's even AFTER a long pull in 95+ degree weather. Didnt have to pull much timing with it. Here are the only issues I have with the these systems:

1. Your AC compressor shuts off at WOT. So if you dont have a larger reservior, you will lose the benefit of the system as the IC water temps climb.
2. If your AC system stops working, youre pretty much screwed.
3. Most AC systems shut down when the ambient temps get close to freezing.
4. IMO they are only beneficial on higher HP combinations.
5. COST
6. Added parasitic loss from constantly running AC compressor.

Just some points for you to ponder. Oh yeah, if you put headers and exhaust on it, the boost level WILL DROP and you will pick up power. If you want to control your IAT's better, I would:

1. Get rid of that open element intake setup. Sucking in 200+ degree under-hood air from behind the radiator and complaining about high IAT's is asinine. If you can run the factory air box, great! AT LEAST it will pull air from the fenderwell and not from behind the radiator.
2. Get a bigger heat exchanger. Actually, get the biggest you can physically fit.
3. Get an intercooler tank. 1 or 2 gallon. Nothing too big. The more capacity the IC system has, the better.

Definitely do a full header/exhaust setup with like a Magnaflow resonator AND a Magnaflow muffler. You want quiet'ish? There you go...

 

yeah, i relocated my battery to the trunk & had a 2gal reservoir built to fit that space to preserve heat-absorbing capacity.

 

you’re definitely right about the exhaust part. A free flowing exhaust would help my setup tons. I already beat you to the enclosed airbox. I couldn’t see myself hacking up my stock airbox for better flow so I got the Volant piece, and it has the snorkel that feeds up cold air down from the bumper. I also already have the Dedicated Motorsports 2.5 gallon reservoir, it sits up in the secondary battery location

 

Have you tried packing your reservoir with ice and filling it with water to test if things improve?

 

i don’t track my truck enough to warrant ice packing. It my daily and I’d like a large reservoir if I was to use ice. I’m hoping the Killer Chiller will take care of those duties

 

Years ago i disconnected my heater core on my turbo truck.
looped the hoses at the water pump
connected my intercooler hoses to the heater core and bypassed the Heat exchanger.
during the summer on a high 90* day i could get my IATs down to the mid 50s.
It worked great. Get the cabin cool and turn the the temperature to half way and the AC was chilling the IC water.

 

By test, I meant test. Not as a solution. I thought that it would be a cheap way to test if cold water would "cool my iats and stop timing from being pulled". As a test. Instead of hoping that a killer chiller will take care of those duties, you could use ice as a test. I only asked if you had tested ice.

 

doesn’t matter what you said, test or tested, Killer Chiller was ordered 3 weeks ago. Just waiting on Kincaid to quit playing with my emotions and give me my KC. I knew it was a mistake to order it, seeing all the horror stories on some of the forums regarding it

 

I'm sure it will be great.