Killer Chiller
#21
vehemently insisting on staying stock but complaining about IATs because you're pushing 15psi?! 
having been down both routes, let me attest that the exhaust will cost you half, net you more power at lower temperatures, and be much less complicated.
i've got the first (and maybe only) KillerChiller for a C5 vette on my TVS2300 build. not sure if he's got a pre-fabbed GMT800 line yet, but if not - it'll require someone who knows how to weld/splice aluminum AC lines and keep them from leaking under the freon pressure. also, the chiller won't add power - it'll just temporarily limit how much you lose when the intake air gets hot (until it gets heat-soaked itself).
headers + a high-flow muffler, on the other hand, will reduce the restrictions in your setup - allowing you to flow the same (or more) air easier... which results in less heat to begin with. that lower heat threshold will help keep you from over-working your intercooler. some 1 7/8" headers into dual 3" pipes with a large-cased, straight-through muffler will still be plenty quiet & not drone.

having been down both routes, let me attest that the exhaust will cost you half, net you more power at lower temperatures, and be much less complicated.
i've got the first (and maybe only) KillerChiller for a C5 vette on my TVS2300 build. not sure if he's got a pre-fabbed GMT800 line yet, but if not - it'll require someone who knows how to weld/splice aluminum AC lines and keep them from leaking under the freon pressure. also, the chiller won't add power - it'll just temporarily limit how much you lose when the intake air gets hot (until it gets heat-soaked itself).
headers + a high-flow muffler, on the other hand, will reduce the restrictions in your setup - allowing you to flow the same (or more) air easier... which results in less heat to begin with. that lower heat threshold will help keep you from over-working your intercooler. some 1 7/8" headers into dual 3" pipes with a large-cased, straight-through muffler will still be plenty quiet & not drone.
#22
no not stubborn and nobody has told me about anything. I asked about a killer chiller. I’ve only ran across one thread of an install about one. I’m sure more people have them but don’t speak on it. I probably won’t either unless I’m asked about if I ever decide to pull the trigger
#23
vehemently insisting on staying stock but complaining about IATs because you're pushing 15psi?! 
having been down both routes, let me attest that the exhaust will cost you half, net you more power at lower temperatures, and be much less complicated.
i've got the first (and maybe only) KillerChiller for a C5 vette on my TVS2300 build. not sure if he's got a pre-fabbed GMT800 line yet, but if not - it'll require someone who knows how to weld/splice aluminum AC lines and keep them from leaking under the freon pressure. also, the chiller won't add power - it'll just temporarily limit how much you lose when the intake air gets hot (until it gets heat-soaked itself).
headers + a high-flow muffler, on the other hand, will reduce the restrictions in your setup - allowing you to flow the same (or more) air easier... which results in less heat to begin with. that lower heat threshold will help keep you from over-working your intercooler. some 1 7/8" headers into dual 3" pipes with a large-cased, straight-through muffler will still be plenty quiet & not drone.

having been down both routes, let me attest that the exhaust will cost you half, net you more power at lower temperatures, and be much less complicated.
i've got the first (and maybe only) KillerChiller for a C5 vette on my TVS2300 build. not sure if he's got a pre-fabbed GMT800 line yet, but if not - it'll require someone who knows how to weld/splice aluminum AC lines and keep them from leaking under the freon pressure. also, the chiller won't add power - it'll just temporarily limit how much you lose when the intake air gets hot (until it gets heat-soaked itself).
headers + a high-flow muffler, on the other hand, will reduce the restrictions in your setup - allowing you to flow the same (or more) air easier... which results in less heat to begin with. that lower heat threshold will help keep you from over-working your intercooler. some 1 7/8" headers into dual 3" pipes with a large-cased, straight-through muffler will still be plenty quiet & not drone.
#25
that’s true. On the mustangs, lightning and hellcat forums, information is plentiful. Maybe because those guys are factory supercharged and half the work is already done for them. You’re definitely right about the exhaust being crucial, but for me it’s going to lead to other areas that I don’t want to mess with. I just want a stock sounding/ driving daily that I can have fun in and surprise other trucks and sports cars, even if it ain’t fast at the track. Once I get my faster times possible I’ll stop going to the track anyways. Just want a sleeper street beast
#27
#28
i understand and I believe it. I may even consider headers eventually if I can’t find any solace in the killer chiller
#29
im not complaining about iats. Anyone with a supercharger has to deal with iats at some point. I wanted some information about the killer chiller. Like I said before, I’ve only ran into about one thread about an install about one. Hopefully I can share my experiences when/if I ever get one
he's been building these for over 20yrs now, but it's only been in the last few that he's branched away from the blue oval crowd - getting more experience in mopar and a little bit with the LSA units. he used what he knew of the LSA setup to fabricate mine - though it was quite the learning experience for us all in getting that one working right.
#30
one downside to it is that, since it's just another method of heat transfer, it'll also become heat-soaked (based on the freon's max cooling capacity) after extended use.
the primary intended setup is for drag racing, where you get a hard pull for a few seconds followed by some recovery time. in that application, it's recommended to actually remove the original water:air brick & just run the chiller because it'll pull the temps lower by itself... however, my case is more road course style driving with not as hard of pulls but for extended time periods. we actually left the antifreeze heat exchanger on with an optional bypass valve for the short stuff so that on the extended runs, i've still got air cooling the intercooler water after the freon warms up.
overall, though, if you can reduce the amount of heat being built up in the first place (e.g. with headers & bigger mid-pipes), then you ain't gotta worry so much about the crazy cooling setups that are more complicated to install (and/or remove if you sell the truck) than a simple exhaust kit.
the primary intended setup is for drag racing, where you get a hard pull for a few seconds followed by some recovery time. in that application, it's recommended to actually remove the original water:air brick & just run the chiller because it'll pull the temps lower by itself... however, my case is more road course style driving with not as hard of pulls but for extended time periods. we actually left the antifreeze heat exchanger on with an optional bypass valve for the short stuff so that on the extended runs, i've still got air cooling the intercooler water after the freon warms up.
overall, though, if you can reduce the amount of heat being built up in the first place (e.g. with headers & bigger mid-pipes), then you ain't gotta worry so much about the crazy cooling setups that are more complicated to install (and/or remove if you sell the truck) than a simple exhaust kit.







