Put my finger over the hole for the IAC and can bring the idle down and even kill the motor. All the wires going to the PCM are stock and have made sure they were good all checked out good.

 

Just tossing out long distance, blind troubleshooting ideas.

I am assuming that it ran the same with the old IAC motor?

So you were running MAFless if you had the intake tube off the TB. That should have set a MAF fail code?

Is the Maggie bypass actuator installed properly and connected to vacuum?

 

I am assuming that it ran the same with the old IAC motor? : Yes that is way I put a new one on.

So you were running MAFless if you had the intake tube off the TB. That should have set a MAF fail code? : The Only code we are getting now is the crack relearn.

Is the Maggie bypass actuator installed properly and connected to vacuum? : Yes it is own the way it was set to me and yes it is connected to vacuum.

 

You ran the BLK not the BLK/WHT wire to the IAT sensor, correct?

The lever arm on the bypass actuator shaft has a number stamped on it that should match the actuator mounting position. There are R and L versions of each.

 

Yes the black wire. I will look at that and see what it has on it.

Today's fun. Unplugged the IAC and drove it man was it fun ran like a top. Shifted good ran good and everything did fin got it home plugged in the IAC bang right to 2000.

 

It is at L-3 and that is what the arm has on it.
To be honest I do not think it is the blower. I am thinking IAC or PCM.

 

I know this is going to sound dumb but what is the purposes of this? Dose it work like a pop off valve like my 6-71.

 

OK Put on a loner TB today same thing. Unplugged idle is fine plugged in and it jumps to 2000.

 

keep it unplugged....solved.

 

On and off valve for boost basically.