Huron speed downpipe issues?
#1
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 181
Likes: 10
From: Lindale, TX close to Tyler.
I know a bunch of guys bought in in the group buy, and Ive sent a message to Jon but wanted to know if anyone else's downpipe is banging the frame rail and points crooked once it exits under the car. It's also an absolute PITA to get in and out of the truck. It's an 03 2wd if that matters. I hope they'll make it right so I don't have to go hacking this up to make it fit.
#3
I have a 01 2WD and mine wasn't on my frame at all. Hope it all works out for you. I installed the DP myself but had a shop connect it to my exhaust I already had so I can't speak on how it lined up to that but they didn't tell me they had any issues.
#5
I had the issue of even getting it into the truck, but was resolved once the the wheel liner was out, Take the liner out and the down pipe will slide inbetween the frame and cross over , and then can be rotated into the correct position.
I am having a problem with the oil return line, the fitting can't be tightened once you have it on the turbo, so it needs assembled before hand, however it is at a 45 degree angle, so it needs clocked correctly. I get the feeling sometimes they never really installed this kit in the truck,or had someone else do it, because the one page of instructions is not nearly enough to cover in detail. You have to be smart to install this kit, that is for sure.
I am having a problem with the oil return line, the fitting can't be tightened once you have it on the turbo, so it needs assembled before hand, however it is at a 45 degree angle, so it needs clocked correctly. I get the feeling sometimes they never really installed this kit in the truck,or had someone else do it, because the one page of instructions is not nearly enough to cover in detail. You have to be smart to install this kit, that is for sure.
#6
Thread Starter
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 181
Likes: 10
From: Lindale, TX close to Tyler.
I had the issue of even getting it into the truck, but was resolved once the the wheel liner was out, Take the liner out and the down pipe will slide inbetween the frame and cross over , and then can be rotated into the correct position.
I am having a problem with the oil return line, the fitting can't be tightened once you have it on the turbo, so it needs assembled before hand, however it is at a 45 degree angle, so it needs clocked correctly. I get the feeling sometimes they never really installed this kit in the truck,or had someone else do it, because the one page of instructions is not nearly enough to cover in detail. You have to be smart to install this kit, that is for sure.
I am having a problem with the oil return line, the fitting can't be tightened once you have it on the turbo, so it needs assembled before hand, however it is at a 45 degree angle, so it needs clocked correctly. I get the feeling sometimes they never really installed this kit in the truck,or had someone else do it, because the one page of instructions is not nearly enough to cover in detail. You have to be smart to install this kit, that is for sure.
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#9
HERE IS THE INSTALL EMAIL I GET FROM HURON:
We do not have a step by step guide available currently but do have some helpful tips. I will also attach some photos to help as well. Anything you need or any questions you can reach me here 7 days a week!
Truck Kit Install Tips
Install the hotside like the photos below, leave everything LOOSE. Once all installed loosely, first tighten down the V-band clamps to each manifold first to get a good seal. After this draw the manifolds in to the cylinder heads allowing the flex couplers to do their job for a perfect seal as well.
Next I would install the wastegate on the passenger side manifold. Get it all set and into place, leaving the clamp slightly loose so you can rotate the wastegate for alignment of the discharge with the downpipe later.
Put the downpipe up into place now. Will not be able to bolt it down but will struggle to get it into position later if the turbo is already mounted. You may bolt the wastegate discharge up at this point to hold the downpipe up in the engine bay and tighten the clamps.
Loosen the 8 compressor housing bolts and 6 turbine housing bolts on the turbocharger so both housings spin freely for clocking purchases. Do a test install of the turbo on the manifold by placing it on with just 2 nuts and bolts to secure it. You will want the compressor outlet facing down and running next to the tensioner. You will want the center section with the feed backing up and the drain pointing down. Once properly clocked, snug one bolt on each housing to secure them and then remove the turbo. Now install your oil feed fitting, and oil drain flange onto the turbo using thread sealer for the feed fitting. Then tighten back up all other compressor and turbine housing bolts.
Now to final install the turbo, once up in place, attach the -10an drain line to the drain fitting on the turbo (difficult to access once the turbo is fully bolted down). Once attached and tight, check routing of the rest of the line and ensure a good path (your end destination for the other end of this line is the front, top portion of the oil pan off to the side of the crank pulley.) Now install the turbo to the flange with the supplied T4 gasket and nuts/bolts.
Bolt the 3" v-band up to the turbo from the downpipe and ensure the clamps to the wastegate-downpipe connection and wastegate-manifold clamp are tight as well.
Install your feed line on the turbo and route how you desire to get it back down near the oil filter area. You will remove the 2-bolt flange above the oil filter and drill/tap this for 1/8" NPT. Once complete thread in with sealant the 2nd supplied 1/8" npt to -4an fitting and hook the other end of your feed line to it.
For the drain you will want to use the line already attached to the turbo and run it down to the front of the pan. With this routed how you like, mark the location on the pan where it will best clear and route. Drill/tap this for 1/2" NPT. Go slow and use a lot of grease on the bit to catch any shavings. Repeat the same with the tap when running it to help catch shavings as well. Once done use whatever method you can of cleaning out any shaving that may have entered the pan here (I was able to get my pinky finger in there some with grease to grab the few that got it) Use your best judgement, it is imperative all shavings are removed if any enter the oil pan. The proper method we recommend is to do it with the oil pan out of the car, however we have done it on the car without issues using the method above being very careful. We are not liable for anything if you do not happen to remove shaving and run into an issue.
You now have the entire hotside bolted up less the catback connection pipe, and all oiling completed.
Cold side you will remove the top plastic cover in the engine bay over the radiator with the push pins, and remove the grill. There will be 2 metal ears down below that need to be cut off so the intercooler can sit down and into place. Once those are cut, fit the intercooler down into place with the inlet/outlet on the cooler orientated on the bottom of each end tank.
From here you will mount up the pipes and connect via silicone couplers. The BOV pipe will come off the drivers side of the intercooler. The MAF flange pipe will connect to this and run up to the Throttle body. The other (2) remaining pipes run on the other side and connect to the turbo via the 90* coupler. You will have a left over 90* coupler that is unused. There is a 3" to 3" and also a 3" to 2.5" as some turbos have a 3" outlet, others a 2.5" so we supply both couplers.
You will attach the 4" 90* intake tube to the compressor inlet of the turbo and the supplied air filter at the other end.
From here you will run your vacuum lines and set up your PCV system per your preferences. The Bottom port on the wastegate and the BOV both need a boost/vacuum reference line. I would recommend running a Tee off the brake booster line to get all of your boost/vacuum reference. The top port on the wastegate is left open to vent unless hooking up a boost controller then use their hook-up instructions.
The port on the 4" intake tube off of the filter is for your PCV to get vacuum. I run this to the front passenger side valve cover port. I then cap the TB port. Finally for PCV I installed a check valve on the PCV tube running to the top of the intake
#10
We have contacted the customer in regards to the downpipes and already sent them a replacement to try. This is the first time I have ever heard of any downpipe clearance problems over the course of many years with this hot side, so we quickly turned around a new downpipes for the customer to try.
In regards to the oil drain above, we also contacted this customer and found their turbo needed an angled drain flange to fit better, already on the way to them.
Both of these above have been email communication between us and the customer and also posts on here. No fear, we are always here to help our customers!
Also if anyone wants to see cold side routing, just shoot me an email and I will be happy to send photos of anything specific you need to see. I am available 7 days a week, communication with me is very easy!
Jon@HuronSpeed.com
Thanks!
In regards to the oil drain above, we also contacted this customer and found their turbo needed an angled drain flange to fit better, already on the way to them.
Both of these above have been email communication between us and the customer and also posts on here. No fear, we are always here to help our customers!
Also if anyone wants to see cold side routing, just shoot me an email and I will be happy to send photos of anything specific you need to see. I am available 7 days a week, communication with me is very easy!
Jon@HuronSpeed.com
Thanks!


