CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

We are really just trying to help you out. Not trying to spend more of your money than needed. Just trying to keep your SC set-up as safe as possible.
The NI kit will create a lot more heat than the I-kit. Your gear ratio really makes no difference.
When strap that trailer on the back, you will see the difference of high temps.
You need a boost gauge, A/F gauge, and an exhaust temp gauge.
These will tell you how your engine is really doing.
The vehicle will be fine without using it for pulling. When you do, you will wish you had an intercooler.
We give you advise. It's all up to you to follow it.


Jim

KY_BOB

iTrader: (2)

The guages are something that I had thought about. If I do just a bolt-on kit right now my next mod will be a pillar pod with a boost and AF guage. As of now I do no towing but I do want to keep my options open.

CoonToot

Don't waste your money on an A/F guage unless you get a wideband model. The narrowband models are truly just a pretty lightshow, as they aren't precise enough to tell you where your A/F ratio really is.

Mr. Sandog

I would consider the non-intercooled Radix only for 5 psi max (with absolutely zero desire for more boost later), and zero towing. You are severely limiting your capabilities with the non-intercooled version, and in light of the price differential, I would have to say it is not worth the savings. I would not want to tow with the NI Radix, you're setting yourself up for detonation. All you need is one hot day and one big hill with your trailer in back and you're in trouble. The intercooled version may cost $1K more, but how much is a new motor?

TwoFast

iTrader: (23)

he can always get a meth kit for about $300 if he plans on towing.....then bump up the boost later on... or upgrade the NI Radix later on by buying the intercooling kit from Magnacharger......

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

The meth kits sounds like a hassle. It takes adjusting and dialing it in right.
I think he really wants something he doesn't have to fool with.
He wants simple but reliability.
The intercooler version is really what he will need.
Either way he can add it later before he decides to tow.
Also instead of different gauges, check this out www.aeroforcetech.com
I found it pretty interesting.
Nelson Performance and Westers sells them to name a few.
They highly recommend them as a great all around gauge.

Jim

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

5800 Tahoe, 4.10 gears/Eaton, Radix IC S/C, 9psi, 5.3L = 9.xx in the 1/8th. (This was on the 24's)

I think the AV is a little heavier, 6100 pounds or so? You are gonna need a little more than a non-IC Radix to get that heavy pig into the 9's. I know you want to have it ready for the track but rushing into a major purchase on a budget will usually cost you more in the end. Settle down, save another month or 2 and get a new Radix. OR buy the IC Radix from CHarris and and get busy. You're gonna need a good dyno tune to get it dialed in right no matter what. Mail order is convenient but, is a guess, and is usually VERY safe. By very safe I mean they sacrifice a lot of available power because they can't tune it in person.
If you want to have fun at the track soon, buy a N2O wet kit, give it a 100 shot and save for the Radix.

KY_BOB

iTrader: (2)

I hate the thought of spending the money but OK. I might just save till Feb or March and do the Radix. $5k (damn) if I were to go that far, how's the kit in bolt-on form? Tuning might come later but out of the box, how is it?


You guy's are killing me!

Mr. Sandog

Out of the box it is great. Nothing better, really. I never deviated from the stock tune except to change top speed, shift points, and transmission timings (to accomodate a shift kit). I drove it for a year on the stock tune and it was great.

You won't regret the decision, it is money well spent. You will realize this once you have it installed and have driven it around for a while. Bolt it on and you go, that's it, nothing else to worry about. Later, if you wish, there could be 30. 40, or more RWHP to be gained with custom tuning.

Regarding tuning, I would not do mail order for any tuning on a forced induction vehicle. To me there are too many variables to get both a safe and efficient tune. Once you start approaching efficient you start straying from safe, and the only way to monitor A/F when tuning is to do street or dyno tuning in person.

You're making the right move, it will be well worth the wait.

KY_BOB

iTrader: (2)

You guy's love sending my money So, should I just wait a couple of months and order a new Radix from Tybrne? It's out of the budget but if it's truely bolt-on and there are no more mods required to make it run, maybe.