Are trucks come with a 1 bar MAP and you use PE to add fuel based on rpm for boost. The stock set MAP can't see boost. Thats what you need a 2 BAR MAP and a 2 bar tune for.
A 1 BAR MAP will read about 29.4 inch's of vaccum (which about 14.7 pounds).
A 2 bar MAP will read the 29.4 inchs of vaccum and about 14.7 pounds of boost.
A 3 bar MAP will read 29 inches of vaccum and about 29.4 pounds of boost. But Jesse told me that you can really only use a 2 bar on are PCM because of the way it scales the map sensor. He said you could use a 3 bar MAP, but he something about you would lose the vaccum part of the table, but it would read to 29.4 lbs of boost. At least that's what I think he said about EFILive.

 

I remembered that right after I posted. Thanks for the correction.
While we are on the subject. Is there a good reason that Magnasun doesn't include a 2 bar with the kit as well as the tuning for it? And I mean a good reason.

 

I would guess that's because it would be a much more involved tune with 2 bar, then just increasing the PE ad pulling some timing. But that's just my guest

 

Lets talk about overall system efficiency as it relates to the modified roots:

So bolting a blower(Eaton/Radix) on makes power, but if the throttle body is restrictive, or the cam is mismatched, you won't get as much power as you could. People make the presumption that if the supercharger is efficient, the engine is efficient. Yet air intake to exhaust system efficiency is by far the controlling performance medium. Improve the engine's induction and exhaust, and you'll get more power per lb of boost. Iinstalling a larger diameter throttle body and opening up the exhaust would be good places to start. Together, you'd probably see lower boost, yet increase performance. That's because some of the boost showing on the stock engine is really back pressure holding the inlet air up. Free up the exhaust and the restriction goes down. More air will flow through the engine at a reduced pressure. Thus boost goes down while power goes up.

the modified roots(Eaton/Radix), as previously stated, has substantial design improvements. The rotors have a unique involute lobe shape and are engineered to a specific L : D ratio(or lift to drag). Each rotor has been twisted 60 degrees to form a helix. The two counter rotating rotors have three lobes, which intermesh during operation. These twisted rotors, along with specially designed inlet and outlet port geometry(ala' 5th Gen), seal timing, and axial air flow help to reduce pressure variations resulting in a smooth discharge of air and a low level of noise during operation. This arrangement significantly improves efficiency over traditional roots superchargers and reaches a volumetric efficiency near 98%.

 

Good reason, sure....CARB.

 

Lets talk turbo-
They make tons of power, more than any other form of FI- that is a point that is hard to argue. Even more than the system I chose.
What do you turbo guys think are the best places to mod after doing a turbo kit, like a STS or Livernois? On a front mount kit how much do you think the factory cat-back would hold you back? How about factory manifolds for a STS? Where do you think money is best spent on mods for a turbo'ed truck? It would seem to me that the extra air volume would almost dictate a better exhaust system. But, I thought I read that STS says that there system doesnt "require" exhaust mods for signifigant extra gains?
I want to talk turbo, mainly because I am sick of hearing about the Radix. This is supposed to be about all FI, isnt it? You know what, it is a great system. But, it is what it is- a complete system with OE quality the develops good power gains. It is not a very expandable system or the right system to choose for BIG power. Heat does affect al systems, but the Radix is like a huge heat sink. It is attached to the hottest part of the engine, the heads. Also, although their intercooler system is compact and well desgined for street use it is not as easy to expand as a centrifugal or turbo. I would bet that the Radix has the most trouble controlling IAT's, especially over a series of runs. You know what, I had IAT problems with my D1. So I spent a LITTLE money on an eBay intercooler and saw a huge difference in power on back-to-back runs. Plus I didnt even have to have any new pipes or anything made. Somebody on here said they saw nearly 100hp after upgrading the intercooler on their ATI on the top end, if you are reading this please post.
Who here has had IAT problems with their FI? What did you do and did it solve your problem? I know nitrous is a quick fix, as is water/meth, but did anybody see a big drop in IAT's from an intercooler upgrade?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

the first day i ran my turbo set up i didn't have any coolant in the intercooler. i could feel nice gains, about what i got with a whipple at higher boost and that would make sense. then i got my heat exchanger installed and filled it with water and i based on my seat of the pants AND maf i saw about 90more fwhp and it was on a 15deg hoter day. , it turned it from fun to nuts just like that.

i think any turbo set up will make great power and just geting a turbo on there that is plumed to work at all will yield decent results. a kit like the livernois kit or like my original kit will make real close to whatever the turbo is rated at no matter what you do to improve on that kit. just having it plumed together so that it is all airtight is the bigest thing, after that it is all in the tuning and that goes for any FI set up.

 

In the summer I dont have an intercooler. But, in the upcoming months I will be running one, called mother nature,gotta love winter. Damn Whipple!!! The only seasonal supercharger I guess that really didnt add anything to the discussion

 

question?

does everyone prettymuch want to talk specific FI setup?

is there any real interest in the more technical side of things?

for instance.......

lets say we start to talk about an STS Turbo kit(or any other), is everyone interested in who got what hp/tq numbers with that setup, or, with the reasons why the GT67 is a good turbo for X size engine because it operates in Y efficiency zone?

 

What is bad is that is one situation that changing the factory emission system would improve emissions.