Epoxy to use for MAF/Intake tubing?
#1
I'm going to machine up some extensions for my MAF and epoxy them to each end.
Doing this to get a better surface to mate the pipes and the silicoce couplers too.
The STS pipes and couplers are around 4" and the ends of the MAF are two different sizes and one is short and the other is plastic.
This makes the seal around the MAF kind of schetchy at best, you can't really tighten up the side on the plastic side of the MAF without distorting it.
I'm also moving my MAF closer to the TB when I get my BOV.
Anything out there besides JB Weld, or would that be the best for this application?
Doing this to get a better surface to mate the pipes and the silicoce couplers too.
The STS pipes and couplers are around 4" and the ends of the MAF are two different sizes and one is short and the other is plastic.
This makes the seal around the MAF kind of schetchy at best, you can't really tighten up the side on the plastic side of the MAF without distorting it.
I'm also moving my MAF closer to the TB when I get my BOV.
Anything out there besides JB Weld, or would that be the best for this application?
#2
I use 2 part epoxy that I mix together, as long as I rough up the p[arts a bit with sand papr a bit, the poxy sticks like cement.
I have never had a MAFS housing come off that I have 2 part epoxied.
peace
HOG
I have never had a MAFS housing come off that I have 2 part epoxied.
peace
HOG
#3
they have a plastic welder out there that has a wand that produces hot air and you use a plastic filler rod , kinda like brazeing, works really well if you can rent one somewhere or find a plumbing contractor that has one.
#4
A really good alternative to epoxy is polyurethane construction adhesive. I'm not kidding, this good stuff. I found in the home center, next to the Liquid Nails. It is advertised as water and weather proof, bonds to wood, metal, stone, and concrete, vinyl, plasics, and foam, and able to bridge 3/8" gaps. The stuff I found is PL brand, by OSI Sealants.
I used it as a sealant on a patch I made to close a hole in my intake manifold, where I has mislocated my IAT sensor, and also to hang the drywall in my bathroom.
It sticks, and remains somewhat flexible, about comparable in softness to the plastic that the stock air intake is made from.
It is the same thing as Gorilla glue, except thick and opaque.
It cost about twice as much as standard construction adhesive, or $2.50 vs. $1.25 for a 10.2 oz. caulk-gun tube.
I used it as a sealant on a patch I made to close a hole in my intake manifold, where I has mislocated my IAT sensor, and also to hang the drywall in my bathroom.
It sticks, and remains somewhat flexible, about comparable in softness to the plastic that the stock air intake is made from.
It is the same thing as Gorilla glue, except thick and opaque.
It cost about twice as much as standard construction adhesive, or $2.50 vs. $1.25 for a 10.2 oz. caulk-gun tube.
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#8
Originally Posted by Mikegyver
Uh-oh.

I think I'm going to use a type of marine epoxy instead of the JB Weld.
Cant find the marine stuff on line but this might work too.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...Epoxy+Adhesive
Last edited by TG02Z71; Feb 3, 2006 at 08:33 AM.
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