When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Shoulda cleaned your AC condenser off while you had all that stuff removed, would have made it work less to cool lol.
Yeah but it was getting down to freezing overnight and we put the hoses up for the year. I'll pull the top cover and hit it when I power wash the engine bay. Get the summer crud off! Didn't want to drive into town looking like I smoked a deer.
I did order new oil cooler and transmission cooler lines yesterday. Have some that are weeping, and my oil cooler block gasket is leaking. Those look to be fun projects.
If you can fit a 4" in there, she will be much happier
It's on the to-do list. Later on I plan to get a 3.75 to 4" 45 or 90 and mount the filter directly off the head unit.
I used intercooler piping since I had so much leftover from the universal kit. I also thought it would act similar to the 'restrictor plates' ECS sells getting me into boost sooner and making it more fun to drive on the street. I'm definitely curious how going larger will change the low rpm (idle to 3kish) feel. First impression it feels much more torquey, and seems it requires less throttle to go the same speed than before. It could easily be psychological too- new mods, new plugs, and I've been driving my wife's Escalade for 2 weeks so it could be I'm used to that pig right now.
Also, fueling wasn't as bad as I'd initially reported. Logged a longer cruise and maf was off +2-5% across the board, and IAT's remained about 3-4* above ambient.
When I run the filter off the head unit, I have filter to cowl interference issues. I am not sure how I plan to get around that for my next build
It also pulls air right off the driver side exhaust like that
I am thinking of a bell mouth and a 6" u bend to pull air from behind the DS headlight instead, but I haven't finalized anything. Might just do 4" and put the bell on the end of the 4" by the headlight
When I run the filter off the head unit, I have filter to cowl interference issues. I am not sure how I plan to get around that for my next build
It also pulls air right off the driver side exhaust like that
I am thinking of a bell mouth and a 6" u bend to pull air from behind the DS headlight instead, but I haven't finalized anything. Might just do 4" and put the bell on the end of the 4" by the headlight
My current arrangement *SHOULD* allow for 4" tubing. The parts are just a 3.75x3" 45* elbow off the head unit to a 45* curved 3" pipe, connected to a 45* 3" coupler, and then hard 90* tube to filter. I haven't tried putting the engine cover back on yet, and doubt it will fit or would fit with 4".
I may scrap the idea of just running it off the blower after you talking of interference and heat. I'll have to copy my setup with 4" tubing to test it out. At least I can reuse the filter! I drove into town to "save big money" at Menards, and it was 292*K when I started it to leave after spending about 15 minutes in the store. Ambient was around 285*K. It got down to 287/288 within a 1.5-2 miles at 45mph even hitting every stoplight. Scanner is setup in *kelvin for a custom math.
I always wondered how effective a bellmouth could really be with the headlights, etc in the way. I had an OEM one on my Colorado that fed the battery box, but it also snaked between the headlight and radiator support to pull fresh air from the grill.
A 6" tapering to 3.75" bell was worth 70 hp, no filter on a Procharger build I was watching back in the day
that was directly on the blower, with no intake tubing at all. So I think it was worth a lot in that scenario, gains may be less for how I envision building an intake
I'm not sure that I should be getting into this much boost so soon. Below is the filter I'm using in the scanner to determine how much boost is coming in when against my timing advance. Pretty sure how low it's coming in I need to upgrade to 4" piping. 3.5" at least 😂
Here's the latest. Noticed a chirp that sounded like brake warning strips. After investigating I found it was the idler pulley. Pulled the pulley to size it and found out it's rebuilbable. It takes 2 15x17x10mm bearings. Found a Timken replacement. MFR info:
Somewhat of an update. Got the 4" intake installed in the head unit. Not as torquey through the lower rpm range (idle through 2500). Truck feels more normal down low. It really proves the concept of the ECS restrictor plates. It definitely pulls smoother on the top end now.
Still tuning 10500+ hz on the MAF. Got some airflow codes the higher I got and disabled them, as well as a pedal code. I did multiply the entire upper MAF table by 1.2 to make sure it was rich and walk it into correct airflow.
The other night I was at the house of a buddy I hadn't seen in a while. There might have been some of the counties finest Bussssccchhhhh lights involved. Didn't watch rpm and hit about 10 psi. Got a p0300 code. Cleared it, truck runs fine but the piston slap it had cold is now permanent when when up to operating temp. Scanned for misfires. Pulled plugs on 4 cylinders that showed misfires. 6 was the worst. Gaps were too tight. Opened them back up.
Went to town and took a video at the pharmacy drivethrough. Sounds worse on video than real life. This is the noise it's made from cold until totally warm as long as I've owned it.
11-11-2021, 07:56 AM
