I have been back and forth for a couple years about going STS style or centri. I decided that piecing it together 1 piece at a time was going to be a wash +/- a couple hundred financially, though the centri would be the fastest and easiest install and easily removed when I sell the truck. I ended up finding a D1SC advertised as a P1SC on fleabay. Contacted Procharger with the serial for confirmation of my suspicions, and immediately took it off the sellers hands. I contacted Procharger about what size pulley to run. The tech I've been in communication with stated that with my U/D pulley I should run a 4" or 3.85 for 8 or 10 psi with 'stock exhaust, heads, and cam". Since that's not me, I'm going to get the 3.85 and maybe a 3.6 or 3.7 to start and hope that puts me into the 7-10psi range to start.

Specs on truck:
2010 Sierra SLT Crew Cab 4x4 w/ 198k
LC9 5.3- 243 heads stock to my knowledge
K&N CAI
Taylor Thundervolt wires
SLP U/D Pulley (6.25" diameter vs 7.7" stock)
SS headers w/ ORY, all ceramic coated
MBRP SS Exhaust
TSP cam- unknown specs- PO install
LS6 springs
DSX Alcohol Sensor
12613412 50#FF injectors
AEM UEGO w/HPTuners
Big 3

Every house needs a foundation


Questions I have- which 2 bar MAP is plug and play? I've figured out how to enable and tune the 2 bar MAP in HPT with an E38 patch and editing the VVE table row/column axis as I don't have a 2 bar custom OS option for mine.

As a general rule, what rpm does the 'stock' pulley start building boost?

PCV- run the procharger routing or is a Mighty Mouse catch can a good idea even at such a low boost level?

 

I dont know about the 2 bar situation for you (later gen ecu), but all the supercharged GM from the 90s-2000s have a 2 bar. 1997 Buick Regal GS, for example. Thats how I got a 2bar and plug. I also run a SD OS

When I was stock lower, 3.8 upper on a P1 I was making 12lbs at 6700rpm and building significant boost ~3k rpm

Now with my D1, I am doing an LSA lower, 8 rib 3.8 upper and a different cam. Also using a wastegate to bleed off excess PSI above 12 to keep my gen3 rods happy

I struggle with my PCV system too and will need to revamp my catch can setup

 

Buy a GM 3 bar MAP sensor from a ZR1/ZL1. It's like $25-30 and all you should have to do it swap two pins in the connector to make it work. After like 2011-2012 the OEM map sensor part number changed and switched to that pin out.

 

When I checked Rock Auto for a visual and part #, it shows the same Map for 2010-2014. They look to be plug and play with my OEM connector. The 2 I'm looking at are 12592525 vs 12644228. 2 bar vs 3 I believe. I can't find a wiring diagram of my truck or a Camaro/Corvette to see which pins would need to be swapped, if any. Any suggestions where to look?

 

I'm hoping to make about 8 with the 3.8 between my cam, exhaust, and UD pulley. I do plan to pulley down later with a wastegate or "torque booster" like what team beefcake sells to get more boost in sooner and maintain to redline.

For now I'm going to run check valves with the PCV and brake booster hose. I'm pushing the catch can off as it's not a necessity yet and we have other more important family expenditures in the next couple months. Looking like it will be a mighty mouse when I get the slush back into the budget.

 

My shopping list are above. Does it look like I'm missing anything?

I already have the 3.8 pulley, bypass valve, and brackets arrive Monday from a member here.

Had to break $150 for free shipping at brute speed. Was at 141 or so, shipping was $72! Might change the shirt to one for the wife

 

Curious to see how that vent kit works for you! I drilled a 5/18-18 bolt to act as my vent, but nothing stops water from getting the 1/16" hole

 

Thought about drilling mine too, but figured this would be an easier, safer way to prevent crap getting in and oil getting out. Couldn't find a 5/16 fitting to build my own. Looks like it's just a harbor freight filter.

 

How much sooner can those torque booster kits build boost or bring in torque in on a procharger. Their basically a blow off valve right?

i tried to google it but all I found if mustang guys living it. But no numbers just better 1/4 trap speeds and times is all I found.

 

Say stock pulley is 8psi max at 6200 and start building 1 psi at 3k. The kit makes it so you pulley down to say 14psi at 6200 and build 4+psi at 3k. The torque booster bleeds off any boost over 8psi so your boost curve ramps up and in faster and stays steady and flat like a roots/screw blower. I have seen a few Dyno sheets and it was average tq and hp that increased, not max.

Also, they use a tial wastegate, not a bov. Bov is on off where WG would be smoother control. My understanding at least.