Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?
#81
Tom, your oil pick-up tube o-ring being red, it should be part number 12584922, unless the part number has changed. Due to you still using a beehive style spring, the valve-seals will be a one-piece seal/seat arrangement, in which case you can just use a socket that will just fit over the outside of the seal, so that you’re actually driving down on the seat. They are a press fit, but it will not take much effort to install them and you will know by the sound, as well as the feel when the seal has seated in the head. If you were to install seals on either an older style motor or if you were installing dual valve-springs that use the separate seat and seal arrangement, I don’t condone installing the seals with a socket, as it can damage the seals. In this case you should use a valve seal driver such as the one pictured below:
Now it doesn't have to be fancy billet aluminum, it can simply be made out of Teflon®, but never the less it is the safer approach for a long lasting set of seals.
Now it doesn't have to be fancy billet aluminum, it can simply be made out of Teflon®, but never the less it is the safer approach for a long lasting set of seals.
Last edited by 1Bear; Sep 6, 2010 at 03:43 PM.
#84
Tom, your oil pick-up tube o-ring being red, it should be part number 12584922, unless the part number has changed. Due to you still using a beehive style spring, the valve-seals will be a one-piece seal/seat arrangement, in which case you can just use a socket that will just fit over the outside of the seal, so that you’re actually driving down on the seat. They are a press fit, but it will not take much effort to install them and you will know by the sound, as well as the feel when the seal has seated in the head. If you were to install seals on either an older style motor or if you were installing dual valve-springs that use the separate seat and seal arrangement, I don’t condone installing the seals with a socket, as it can damage the seals. In this case you should use a valve seal driver such as the one pictured below:
Now it doesn't have to be fancy billet aluminum, it can simply be made out of Teflon®, but never the less it is the safer approach for a long lasting set of seals.
Now it doesn't have to be fancy billet aluminum, it can simply be made out of Teflon®, but never the less it is the safer approach for a long lasting set of seals.
skolman91, I didn't get a LS6 pump, cause we have the same pump I was told. It if wasn't a Titan or blueprinted (I think SLP does it), I couldn't see spending the coin. I've 75,500 miles on my truck. Yes, a 10 or 12mm deep socket can be used to seat the valve seals.
I too thought I'd read a skt. could be used, so I had to go find what size they said. If I can't get 1 quick, a 10/12 milli deep we have to get it. But $12 is quite reasonable, considering how much some tools can cost (including those for this job).
#86
#87
Apparently, the link I've been workin w/. was wrong: they said 10/12mm deep. Not arguing, just sayin what I read. Either way, I've got both. 
Leave the sq. drive on top, & have at it w/. whatever size it may be.

Leave the sq. drive on top, & have at it w/. whatever size it may be.
#88
Now change them damn springs already and keep us updated…….LOL






