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Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by skolman91
From what ive read there is around a 10-13% lower reading on mustang dynos, but thats not concrete..
If your going to go there and be conservative like i know you prob will , id at least do 5800..

If it were me id prob do something like what gmctrk mentioned, maybe 100rpm less.
Really its up to you to mess with it, go out there and see what runs the best..
My guess for a time when compared to before times would prob be a consistent 14.4 range, but imo should be in the 14.0 range.. Hopefully im wrong and you are in the latter range, good luck..
I normally shifted @ 5500 prior to cam & springs, & not over that.

I wanna do 5500 just to compare to before as close as I can. I know it'll be cooler tomorrow. Then ramp it up from there. You do know it was 15.0 before right?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:29 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I was gonna comment on the power flatlining on a 60E vs a 80E thru a higher shift point, but I see the shift recovery comment. I just left in 3rd & let it shift itself for most part. I may've shifted a few runs the last time manually.

If shift points are set at say, for ex. 5500, whatever, let's use 5500 tho. If computer shifts, it'll do so at that RPM. Is it possible to manually override beyond 5500, or will it still only shift @ 5500, but w/. me rowing thru the gears? Just curious.
Not sure, Ive never tried before. I know Ive ran my truck up to 6600 holding second messing around and thats a bit above my shift point and it was still holding. My fuel cutoff is set at 6800 so it probably wouldve let me run it up to that before it cut out, Ive just never actually set out to test it

Your tune is unlocked right? If so changing shift points is VERY easy to do.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:40 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I normally shifted @ 5500 prior to cam & springs, & not over that.

I wanna do 5500 just to compare to before as close as I can. I know it'll be cooler tomorrow. Then ramp it up from there. You do know it was 15.0 before right?
5500 is even almost low for a stockish 5.3, spin that sucker up till you hear some clanking then back off a little..
and i thought it was 14.8 before? either way id hope you at least knock off .5 with a cam change..
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Not sure, Ive never tried before. I know Ive ran my truck up to 6600 holding second messing around and thats a bit above my shift point and it was still holding. My fuel cutoff is set at 6800 so it probably wouldve let me run it up to that before it cut out, Ive just never actually set out to test it

Your tune is unlocked right? If so changing shift points is VERY easy to do.
I think my fuel cutoff is 6200 or 6300, when I viewed it a few days ago prior to my tune. I guess I'll bump that to 6500.

Yes, I'm unlocked. He never locked it from day 1. Even before I had HPT. He knows I don't want it locked, & also prefers me tweak tranny, as do I. I'll leave the engine tuning to someone else other than me. Til I learn a bunch more.

I forgot what trans table u tweak shift points from. Or is it pretty self-explanatory on HPT?
Sounds like before I go, do another tune w/. raised fuel cutoff & upped shift limits. Points I'll do another time. A shift point should only go up /down by what? 1-3 mph? I never changed any trans tables when I did trans & stall BTW.


skolman, it was 14.8 prior to FLT L7 & stall (no tonneau, jack, nor spare). I was told tonneau is 110#, spare is ~59#, jack is ~26, so I figure ~200#. So I figure that 200# = .2.
Next time after trans / stall, but w/. tonneau, jack, & spare, I ran 15.0. Took out the spare & jack, it did nothing for me. I also later removed tailgate, but the tonneau was still on for all 5 passes. How do u add a 2600 stall & not get any faster is beyond me.

Last edited by fastnblu; Sep 28, 2010 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Added 1/4 info
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #185  
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The reason your hp and tq numbers seem so off is because you're only spinning it to 5000 rpms. HP and TQ cross at 5252 and you will make peak torque before this. Your HP numbers should climb just into 6000 with your setup. This is why your HP number seems really low and your TQ way high, you are only doing half a pull.

Btw..if you are worried on start up after filter/oil change, fill the oil filter with oil before you install it.

You are doing a good job, keep it up.

Last edited by Dezert1500; Sep 28, 2010 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by Dezert1500
The reason your hp and tq numbers seem so off is because you're only spinning it to 5000 rpms. HP and TQ cross at 5252 and you will make peak torque before this. Your HP numbers should climb just into 6000 with your setup. This is why your HP number seems really low and your TQ way high, you are only doing half a pull.

Btw..if you are worried on start up after filter/oil change, fill the oil filter with oil before you install it.

You are doing a good job, keep it up.
Matt, I knew 5252 is where they "X". I sure didn't know the hi-lighted part.

I normally fill filter w/. oil tho. I'm just like that.

I'm tryin, I'm tryin.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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Didnt you go up in tire size between the 14.8 run and when you put the converter in?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #188  
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No sir.

No tuning for stall or trans was done what-so-ever. Maybe that's how u guys get these .3-.5 gains w/. a stall. Or my stall isn't enuff over stock to make any difference.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
Or my stall isn't enuff over stock to make any difference.
Right.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:41 PM
  #190  
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I'm also thinkin the Radix will up that stall a bit, like when someone goes from a 5.3 to a 6L. Or whatever, as in more cubes.
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