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8 rib belt issues... Help!

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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #71  
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When I put an extension in the tensioner it does move when I really put some muscle into it prying on it toward the rad or motor... Do you think if I get a spacer made that's full face instead of 2" round fender washers? The hd tensioner really does move a lot less than the other tensioner that was on it. The other one jumped all over at an idle and this had one barely moves at an idle now so I think that should fix that issue but I don't know if it's moving side to side under a load
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 03:17 PM
  #72  
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Without having shoulders on the pulley, any deflection would be bad juju.

-is there another pulley you can bolt onto that tensioner arm?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #73  
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I have a shouldered 8 rib pulley on mine.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by silver-mod-o
I'm jumping in late, but I'd be willing to bet a cold beer on that tensioner being your issue.

Since you haven't seen your own setup work under load, check these videos out to see how crucial it is for that thing to swing straight and square and stay plenty tight. I know this has been posted here before but it most definitely pertains to this thread...
holy **** that's nuts on the 2step. how much belt stretch you think is there during the pass? 3"??
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #75  
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I threw the shouldered pulley that I had on the tensioner and it has to get spaced way out for that pulley to work... And the bolt is only in by 3ish threads holding the pulley on and it's a left hand metric bolt so I have no clue where I can get one of them around even if I would space it way out? But I feel the more it's spaced out the more it'll flex?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:00 PM
  #76  
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What I really don't understand is that when the pullies were all out of whack without the spacer on the blower pulley, the washer on the tensioner pulley or now the fender washers behind the tensioner arm and the washers on the smooth idlers that the belt didn't come off at all it just had a belt squeal that I couldn't deal with on a 2012 vehicle... So I spaced them all out and got them all good and now it throws belts... I'm about to take all the spacers off and run it how it was with a nasty belt squeak!!!
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #77  
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Well I took the spacers and washers out of all the pullies and tensioner arm... So the blower pulley is sitting really far back compared to the alt. Pulley and the tensioner is back close to the blower pulley but off with the crank pulley. Went out for a rip and the belt stayed on... Makes no sense to me at all!!! The belt will start squeaking after a few drives like it did before but the belt stays on... Is there any way I could have the wrong alternator pulley? I put the stock blower pulley and it's the same distance off of the alt. Pulley... Seems like a different alt pulley might help but then all the pulleys can be aligned but the crank pulley will be off from everything... I don't get it. Can my 6.2 be different from the rest of the truck accessories?
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #78  
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It kind of makes sense since you decreased the lever arm the pullies aren't deflecting as much under load so they stay straighter even though the are misaligned.
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 12:47 PM
  #79  
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It just doesn't make sense to me... I'd think since they are misaligned that much is think the belt would want to get pulled toward the rad off the blower pulley since it's so far back from the alt. Or even pull the belt towards the alt. Off the pulley. If they are out of alignment wouldn't they be prone to come off more than if they are straight? Or are the groves in the belt holding it better cause it has tension on it side to side now instead of them all being straight? I'm lost here haha
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Old Nov 3, 2015 | 01:42 PM
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Can you compare your crank pulley to another vehicle to see if it is on all the way? If you didn't drill deep enough for the pin, it would not be able to be fully installed. Just a thought.
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