That check valve is part of the PCV system, I drilled and hollowed mine out and even then it wasn't really necessary. It's to keep junk from getting back into the valve train through that hose. Not sure how you plan on running your current PCV set-up but that check valve won't effect your performance or engine life at all.

 

GM switched from the spring style PCV valve to a fixed orifice design in 03 or 04. The orifice is built into the tube on the valve cover or the tube on the valley cover for LS2/LS7.

I had to trim mine off the LSX valley cover for clearance, so I just ran that hose off my DS fabricated valve cover and spliced the tube with orifice into the hose. Hope that keeps the LSX block happy!

 

You'll more than likely need to keep that check valve in there somehow as extra ventilation so you don't end up boosting the crank case. After the procharger install on my truck we installed a small filter with a check valve inside onto the oil fill cap but I was still boosting the crank case. So I ended up adding another check valve in the hose from the outlet of my catch can that returns back to the intake. Before I did that I was getting a pretty substantial amount of oil blow by all underneath my truck but since adding the second check valve my blow by and crank case pressure problems are gone. Not sure if the roots style blowers have that same problem or way of fixing it, just how I ended up solving the problem on my own setup. Hope that helps some keep up the good work!

 

On the Maggies that PCV hose is connected between the TB and the rotors, so it only sees vacuum not boost.

 

Okay cool, I had no idea thats why i just threw it out there with what my problem was. I figured it would be different on a roots blower since it replaces the intake manifold and obviously that line has to go somewhere else. The problem i was running into was when the truck went into boost the pressure would revert back through the catch can the opposite way and back down into the valve cover thus pressurizing the crank case which gave me all sorts of hell with blow by. it was so bad the oil was dripping off my trans pan and cross member. I still have a tiny issue with it but have one more trick to get rid of all the pressure in the crank case.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. FYI, this is not an LSx block. It's a OEM 6.0 block. I'm about to install the blower. More questions to follow lol

 

OK guys I need help figuring out/understanding this evap hook-up.

Here is what I am thinking but I am totally guessing at this point:

Connect the brake booster hose to the lower right (LR) barb on the TVS:


I rigged up the evap solenoid here and then am planning to clamp this hose to the end and route it to TVS hose barb on the upper left (UL):


Then I will attach the check valve to the valve cover using a short run of hose, and connect the other end after the check valve to the lower left (LL):


The last barb on the TVS is already connected to the bypass.



I'm trying to convert the TVS instruction from the old M112 instructions and this seems to be what I come up with.
Any want to help?

 

Oh, the passenger side front valve cover... I just put a rubber cap on that vent.

 

You don't really need the check valve. Not sure it will function properly anyway with the small orifice in the tube on the valve cover. The pass side valve cover tube is the fresh air inlet. It can be connected to the inlet tube after the air filter/before the TB. Your other connections sound right.

 

Needed to buy a 58X Crank Pos Sensor for the Lingenfelter converter box. Hooking that up today.
Also need the part number for a good Green HD 8 rib belt.
What is the preferred length for a 2.9" pulley and a 10% overdrive balancer?