well i guess that proves dyno numbers don't mean anything at the track.. i still would have expected alot more i was running faster then that with my 4.8 and it had 245hp... no stall, no cam, stock heads....

 

Thanks for the update Chris.
A stall converter will make a big difference at the track. The gears will make a nice difference at the track and on the street. Do the gears first. Your gas mileage around town won't hurt so bad. Both the gears and the higher stall converter will allow the engine to operate in a higher rpm range where the cam and head work is designed to go. Your tach will see 600-700rpm more with the gear change. That's a big difference. Also, the gears are less expensive. I'm sure from a roll your truck pulls pretty hard. It's the standing start that hurts your 1/4 mile et's.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Good luck.

Richard

 

I picked up .7 10th's in the 1/8mi when I installed my 3600 stall.







.

 

I would get the stall first if it was me. I think it will make more difference. Even with 4.56 gears your launch will still be soft with no stall. You need to get that engine into it's power range so it can tug against that gear. With the higher stall your rpm's wont drop near as much between shifts, and that will healp you too. Between a good verter, and 4.10's you should pick up a good second. What are your shift points set at?

 

the truck shifts at 5800 RPMs or so. i was looking at the yank tt 3000 or 2600 for the stall

 

upping the shift points will help as well... after the ****, it should fall back into the powerband better... shifting at 5800 is causing it to drop too low and lose whatever power it had.

 

yeah, after i ****, mine falls back into the powerband much better!!


JFWY damned typo's

 

I just saw that... LOL

 

Good numbers man,keep it up