lowchevytrucks8503

iTrader: (1)

I haven't purchased the motor/tranny yet. I'm looking to see if I'm up to it and capable of the swap. I have a ton of questions.


Whats the best route for the speedometer and guage cluster?
Motor Mounts? I see some from trans dapt but theres different measurements and I'm not sure which ones to get lol.
Fuel tank, pump, sending unit and all the plumbing?
What Headers work?
Wiring Harness?
Drive Shaft?
And what else am I forgeting?

Thanks for the help guys. and if anyone could put a number on what this is going to cost me without the price of mods and motor/tranny

496chevy

The swap is as simple as it sounds.
-get a cluster from a 90-91 suburban.. those have electric speedo's - just re pin the cluster connector
-use your existing motor mounts and make your own adapter plates... super easy
-mod your trans xmember or make a tubular one - super easy if you have a welder
-1987 fuel tank with 85ish corvette fuel pump. research S&P ls1 swap. they give the part number for the fuel pump
-pace setter headers will work if you dent them a bunch and notch the frame a tad
-wire harness- use the one that comes with the motor unless you have 750$ to drop on a painless.
-driveshaft - seriously? you think one will bolt up to this montage of chevy parts? have it shortened with the yoke of a 4l80e

fuel supply, russle i think makes fuel rail adapters for the return style system
transmission lines can be used from donor truck with minimal modification.
you will also have to relocate the shifter linkage mounting point thats rivited to the frame foward.
you will have to modify the gas pedal if you use the 5.3 throttle cable.

keep it simple and dont overthink it and you will be good. it took me about a weekend start to finish (driveable). few more weekends to neaten things up and what have you.
Most important thing here is to have everything in your garage before you start otherwise its gona be frustrating..

the average swap will probally set you back cost of the motor plus (around) 1500 for mis. parts such as: engine/trans harness, computer, fuse box, tuning, headers, exhuast work, fuel lines, trans lines, radiator hoses, belts, fluids, filters, cluster, driveshaft shortened, fuel pump, fuel filter, thottle cable, a/c hose and fittings, MAF, intake tubing, Filter.
Think thats about it...

lowchevytrucks8503

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man I have been reading a ton of threads. You just answered alot of my questions. I haven't looked for a motor or tranny yet. I wanted to do exactly as you said and start getting everything needed inorder to do this swap. thanks again.

lowchevytrucks8503

iTrader: (1)

Okay so I've been looking at motor mounts and trying to figure out the problem ahead of time with running a/c. Do I need to move the motor foward an inch, backward an inch, or stock placement? I have no desire to cut my frame........ Does the motor placement even matter, or do I need different compressor brackets? any help would be appreciated thanks

Chris10an

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure if this is the same frame. i have done this job on a 72 Blazer 4x4 with a lm7-4L60E-Np205.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

you won't be able to use stock compressor in stock location. look into sanden kit. if you swap around the motor mounts to relocate motor, it'll move it about 4" forward. The AC compressor will fit, but you'll have to notch the frame to make the connection for lines.

lowchevytrucks8503

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I have the same question on ls1truck.com you don't have to answer it twice lol. Decide to keep your truck?

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

for the 80E swap you only need to swap to an 80E yoke... It does not need to be shortened. Dont buy the TH 400 yoke because its too long, even if its cut down it wont slip over right because an 80e yoke has recessed splines. Its really not as hard as it seems, good luck

iamkeniff

iTrader: (16)

isnt there a u-joint that puts the 80E yoke on the 60E drive shaft?

00Silv4.8

iTrader: (10)

what you are talking about is the yoke for the rear axle... (cant remember what its called) but I believe its out of a 2500HD. Only works if your gonna pull an HD shaft and run it (bigger, lighter, etc)