Descreened the MAF, a noticeable improvement, dumped the POS stock muffler, you would think that the stock dual 3" in and dual 3" out would flow pretty well, but its trash! The "outlet" towards the driveshaft side is simply a resonator chamber with little flow! Looked at the Magnaflow, but it only has 2 1/2" internal tubes! Why bother? I ended up installing my favorite mufflers, (Dynomax 3" Super turbos #17769 after flowing a bunch of promising mufflers that didn't deliver. The pair of them flow over double what the stock muffler flows. I made a nice two 3" into one 4" transition that goes into a universal Dynomax 4" diesel tailpipe. On the flowbench the transition/ tailpipe/ Dynomax combo still flows just a bit more than double what the stock muffler/ tailpipe flowed. The results were nothing short of dramatic!!!!! The muffler/ tailpipe gains were worth more than the headers!!! Total modifications so far: Air box sound deadening vanes removed, inlet to airbox opened up in box and fender, outlet radiused (generously), K & N stock replacement air cleaner element, MAF screen removed, air crossover tube heated and clearance notch removed(think airfow QUALITY into the throttle body), throttle body ported(gained about 100 cfm and will bore it later), Superchips tuner with 87 octane tune installed(I'm cheap! so what?), Stainlessworks 1 7/8" headers, 2 Dynomax 17769 mufflers, and 4" diesel tailpipe. Results, A TIRE FRYING S.O.B!!! I can roast them all through 1st gear and into second! If I leave it in drive, it will upshift to second and sometimes into third while spinning them, and while not moving too far! Not very scientific, but a serious improvement. Tires are 285-70/17s and the gears are stock 3.70s. I will be looking at wider tires/ wheels soon! I have some different ideas on the intake manifold mods and will report when completed (I live on my Superflow 600 Flowbench!) Others philosophy may vary, but I have had a hi-performance machineshop since the early 80s and been dragracing since 1968. I prefer to do all of the external bolt ons and mods first (on a running vehicle), then I go inside the engine. My experience is if you go inside first and don't do the external stuff you will always be disappointed. If you can't get the air into and out from the engine, what happens inside is not as important. I've seen many good engines strangled when the money ran out before the externals were finished. Just my opinion/observation. P.S. I couldn't spin the tires more than 8-10 feet before the mods. TIMINATOR (and I earned that handle)

 

Where can this 3bolt to 4 bolt adapter be had from? Just bought my SW headers today and while i wait for them to come in this will be my next mod! Oh and the wiring also please?

 

Raylar Engineering, of course!

You can only flow as much air as the weakest link in the chain. There is no benefit to the 90mm throttle body (or even the 78mm for that matter) until your intake manifold has been internally modified. At that point, you will be able to run either the 78mm (stock) or the 90mm (modified) throttle body and actually see gains from the swap.

 

Yes Sir, Just bought an extra IM to mod So thats why i was wondering where the adapter and wiring could be had?

 

OK just picked up a ls2 ctsv tb 90mm and the adapter plate for it I found on ebay. Is this the correct wiring and adapter plate?

Harness Adapter for LS2 Throttle Body on LS1 Vehicle

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manifold-Adapter-Plate-92MM-4-Bolt-To-3-Bolt-THROTTLE-BODY-LS2-To-LS6-/131420686948?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e99488a64&vxp=mtr

 

I think that is the correct adapter but i converted all mine to cable

 

but i wont need one if i can get all welded as one piece correct?

 

So LS2 throttle body or TBSS throttle body?

 

Bump. Any more headway Timinator?