4.6 computer help
02-19-2012, 01:41 PM
#2
computers are basically the same with slightly different VE tables to compensate the extra cubic inches, thats all. Gains? None. It will be an extreme pain in the *** unless you just need to replace the old dead computer.
If anything, you WOULD receive gains from it if you had higher flowing heads and the same size injectors as the 5.4 engine- the computer only knows calculations on how much fuel goes in the motor, not the cubic inches. So if you had picked up how much air is going into the cylinder, it would be as if it was a 5.4 essentially in the amount of air coming in/going out. But- theres much better ways to compensate for things like that instead of swapping out the ecm.
If anything, you WOULD receive gains from it if you had higher flowing heads and the same size injectors as the 5.4 engine- the computer only knows calculations on how much fuel goes in the motor, not the cubic inches. So if you had picked up how much air is going into the cylinder, it would be as if it was a 5.4 essentially in the amount of air coming in/going out. But- theres much better ways to compensate for things like that instead of swapping out the ecm.
03-23-2012, 01:00 AM
#3
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I have a 2000 Silverado 4by4 with a passlock problem. I read your article on the GM Pontiac so I decided to try it on the Silverado.
The Key has no resistor or chip in it.
I have taken the covers off the steering and the lock is ready to work on.
1) there is a 3 wire bundle with plastic piece across the 3 wires about 1 in. from the lock.
2) The manual (CHILTON) states that the red wire is the 12 volt and that the ye low wire is the "DATA" to the BCM
3) The last wire of the three must be a ground signal return.
So I cut the data wire and the return and solder a 2.2k Ohm resistor, I left the "plastic thing" still on the side of the wires going to the "KEY"
then I started the re-learn.
Nothing, I got the security light flashing. There is one improvement the "check engine light" goes ON when I turn the key to ON, before "NO security light".
If you have any words of wisdom or better, a diagram of what it should be, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!!!!.
Thank you
Hector Celis
hector.celis@sbcglobal.net
The Key has no resistor or chip in it.
I have taken the covers off the steering and the lock is ready to work on.
1) there is a 3 wire bundle with plastic piece across the 3 wires about 1 in. from the lock.
2) The manual (CHILTON) states that the red wire is the 12 volt and that the ye low wire is the "DATA" to the BCM
3) The last wire of the three must be a ground signal return.
So I cut the data wire and the return and solder a 2.2k Ohm resistor, I left the "plastic thing" still on the side of the wires going to the "KEY"
then I started the re-learn.
Nothing, I got the security light flashing. There is one improvement the "check engine light" goes ON when I turn the key to ON, before "NO security light".
If you have any words of wisdom or better, a diagram of what it should be, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!!!!.
Thank you
Hector Celis
hector.celis@sbcglobal.net
04-24-2012, 08:15 AM
#4
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Hector.Celis, I think you could get a tune done that would remove the anti-theft system if you wanted. Get up with some of our sponsors on here and they should be able to get ya straight.
04-24-2012, 08:18 AM
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Moparman, smauelson is right the 5.4 ecu is basically the same besides slight table differences here and there. You should be able to install it and the truck should run with it, but I don't think you will see any gains at all.
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