If you 're at -4 across the board. I'd leave em alone. Going to zero is a waste of time. -4 means you are taking a little bit of fuel away... a very safe place to be on a custom tune.

 

Yeh I know...plus' aren't great 0 to -5 is very acceptable and safe (zero is impossible). I have some 2's and 4's in the "converter range", 2500 to 2900 area that I am really after. I'd like to see the pcm taking fuel not adding it. I am talking like one more edit, one point of the VE numbers in the corresponding plus cells.

Next up is the MAF Tuning I guess.

 

sounds like your getting the hang of it quickly!!! Im going to need some help when I get into tuning mine so I'll be sending you some PM's!!

 

You know my disclaimer...I am learning as I go, don't blame me for **** I say or do! LOL No prob. I found a short write up on WB SD Tuning, it is missing some points but I'll help where I can. That's what the forum is for...talking and giving out your experience to others...oh yeh and posting funny *** vidoes.

The boost thing is tricky only because you gotta pay attention to that gauge. I mean you are constantly "snapping" the gas pedal to try and get around in those cells, the higher the rpm the WAAAAAAY faster the boost comes...as you all already know, but you defintiely know even better when you are actually trying NOT to get boost. Who would of ever thunk it...DON'T boost. LOL

 

You could always zip tie the bypass actuator open while you drive around, then you wouldn't have to worry about going into boost. I had to do this for a couple of days when I accidentally snapped off the vaccum hose fitting while replacing the line.