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shortage after installing center console

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Old Nov 29, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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Default shortage after installing center console

I recently installed a center console on my 04 silverado and now i have battery drain issues. I already took off and redid checked my wires on the center console and nothing is grounding it or causing a shortage from there. I already checked my battery and alternator and those arent the problems either. Can someone help me?
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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so i did the parasitic draw test and i only get a reading of 0.80ish amps (when set to 10amps) being drawn and ive pulled out all fuses one by one (under hood fuses and interior fuses) and it wont go below that. The battery was recently replaced so its not the battery. And the altanator is good to. So what else can i do? If my truck sits for a few hours (sometimes depending on how much ive driven during the day) it will die and every morning i come out to a dead battery. The only thing i did when this started happening was i installed a center console but i already tore that back out and made sure i had the wires connected right. Also i changed my driver seat from non electrical to electrical but ive unplugged the seat to see if that was the cause and it still wasnt. Any help is appriciated. Also its a 04 silverado.
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 07:45 PM
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From: JunkYard
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Originally Posted by Prolong
so i did the parasitic draw test and i only get a reading of 0.80ish amps (when set to 10amps) being drawn and ive pulled out all fuses one by one (under hood fuses and interior fuses) and it wont go below that. The battery was recently replaced so its not the battery. And the altanator is good to. So what else can i do? If my truck sits for a few hours (sometimes depending on how much ive driven during the day) it will die and every morning i come out to a dead battery. The only thing i did when this started happening was i installed a center console but i already tore that back out and made sure i had the wires connected right. Also i changed my driver seat from non electrical to electrical but ive unplugged the seat to see if that was the cause and it still wasnt. Any help is appriciated. Also its a 04 silverado.
How exactly are you testing for a parasitic draw???
How do you know the battery is good???
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Old Nov 30, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
How exactly are you testing for a parasitic draw???
How do you know the battery is good???
i have the negative cabe unpluged got my multimeter connected from the cable to the terminal on the battery and was pulling fuse by fuse. also its a new battery ( and ive been told already it could still be a bad battery) but when i first got it the battery lasted me 3 days without having to boost it. but i am going to go get it checked out tomorrow
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 03:09 AM
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From: JunkYard
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Originally Posted by Prolong
i have the negative cabe unpluged got my multimeter connected from the cable to the terminal on the battery and was pulling fuse by fuse. also its a new battery ( and ive been told already it could still be a bad battery) but when i first got it the battery lasted me 3 days without having to boost it. but i am going to go get it checked out tomorrow
Definitely get the battery checked. I have had bad ones right off the shelf.

What I mean is when you preform the test looking for the draw.

Ground side cable off is good and correct.

Is the door closed with the key off??? When you check the interior fuses is the door switch disabled???

If you have already ruled out the new components you added what else do you have???

Do you have an aftermarket alarm or radio??? If so, have you disconnected them to rule that out??? The number 1 cause I have found in the past is aftermarket alarm systems followed by aftermarket stereo's.

With Factory components, usually pulling 1 fuse at a time will find an issue. Some system's have a double feed so you need to pull all related fuse's for each system. An example would be On star. It's tied into multiple systems. I don't have wiring diagram but It might be tied to ignition and radio. So if it had an internal short and you only disconnect 1 system it might still back feed through the other system.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Definitely get the battery checked. I have had bad ones right off the shelf.

What I mean is when you preform the test looking for the draw.

Ground side cable off is good and correct.

Is the door closed with the key off??? When you check the interior fuses is the door switch disabled???

If you have already ruled out the new components you added what else do you have???

Do you have an aftermarket alarm or radio??? If so, have you disconnected them to rule that out??? The number 1 cause I have found in the past is aftermarket alarm systems followed by aftermarket stereo's.

With Factory components, usually pulling 1 fuse at a time will find an issue. Some system's have a double feed so you need to pull all related fuse's for each system. An example would be On star. It's tied into multiple systems. I don't have wiring diagram but It might be tied to ignition and radio. So if it had an internal short and you only disconnect 1 system it might still back feed through the other system.
Will get it checked today after work.

Yes i have the door closed and key out when i checked under the hood. It didn't occur to me when i did the inside ones and left the door open and not disabled.

Also i do have a aftermarket radio but I already unplugged the fuse and still woke up to a dead battery. But also when i pulled it it dropped from .84 to .63 and the battery still died.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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From: JunkYard
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The door switch needs to be disabled when testing. It's just like turning something on. If the radio showed some signs of a draw, focus on the whole system. You may want to get a manual so you can chase the circuit's. There may be more then one power source in the circuit.
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