Service Brake System/ABS light
#1
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
I'm having a hard time pulling the code. I know HPT can't do it and I took it to a mechanic friend and his SnapOn tool said "ECU error".
Is this because of the tune? Do I need to get a replacement PCM?
Thanks in advance
Is this because of the tune? Do I need to get a replacement PCM?
Thanks in advance
#2
Not sure about the tune influence. Maybe you could attack it from a different angle: logic.
When does it come on? Immediately after starting the truck, while it's still sitting still (module); or after it's been rolling for a few seconds (wheel sensor)?
You could just do the obvious, if you haven't already, and check to make sure it's all plugged in and such as that. Fuses all good etc.
If all that seems in order, and it's the situation where it immediately comes on, probably best to just change the module. AFAIK not much else can make it do that. They go bad quite a bit. It's not much fun but you can do it without disturbing the hydraulics.
When does it come on? Immediately after starting the truck, while it's still sitting still (module); or after it's been rolling for a few seconds (wheel sensor)?
You could just do the obvious, if you haven't already, and check to make sure it's all plugged in and such as that. Fuses all good etc.
If all that seems in order, and it's the situation where it immediately comes on, probably best to just change the module. AFAIK not much else can make it do that. They go bad quite a bit. It's not much fun but you can do it without disturbing the hydraulics.
#3
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Not sure about the tune influence. Maybe you could attack it from a different angle: logic.
When does it come on? Immediately after starting the truck, while it's still sitting still (module); or after it's been rolling for a few seconds (wheel sensor)?
You could just do the obvious, if you haven't already, and check to make sure it's all plugged in and such as that. Fuses all good etc.
If all that seems in order, and it's the situation where it immediately comes on, probably best to just change the module. AFAIK not much else can make it do that. They go bad quite a bit. It's not much fun but you can do it without disturbing the hydraulics.
When does it come on? Immediately after starting the truck, while it's still sitting still (module); or after it's been rolling for a few seconds (wheel sensor)?
You could just do the obvious, if you haven't already, and check to make sure it's all plugged in and such as that. Fuses all good etc.
If all that seems in order, and it's the situation where it immediately comes on, probably best to just change the module. AFAIK not much else can make it do that. They go bad quite a bit. It's not much fun but you can do it without disturbing the hydraulics.
It’s consistently on from key on until key off. It happened a few weeks ago coming home from work on the interstate.
Wheel bearings are about 2 years old.
#6
Its not because of the tune. Which Snap on tool does he have?
#7
Ive been fooling with AWD trucks for some time already and from personal experience its usually always its a bad Wheel bearing.
Check the ABS cable on the strut tower, ive seen them get disconnected, and even burned a cable on the header.
Also, the cheaper brand wheel bearings usually last about 2 years, give or take.
Check the ABS cable on the strut tower, ive seen them get disconnected, and even burned a cable on the header.
Also, the cheaper brand wheel bearings usually last about 2 years, give or take.
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#8
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From: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Ive been fooling with AWD trucks for some time already and from personal experience its usually always its a bad Wheel bearing.
Check the ABS cable on the strut tower, ive seen them get disconnected, and even burned a cable on the header.
Also, the cheaper brand wheel bearings usually last about 2 years, give or take.
Check the ABS cable on the strut tower, ive seen them get disconnected, and even burned a cable on the header.
Also, the cheaper brand wheel bearings usually last about 2 years, give or take.
I'll double-check the connectors on the shock towers.
When I replaced the bearings 2 years ago, I used Timken.
#9
Not sure what year yours is, but my NNBS has a small leak somewhere, very minute, but in the colder months it would get low and give me brake system/ABS lights.
#10
Regarding the code - with the snap on scanner you should be able to read wheel speed from all the wheels. That will tell you if you have a bad sensor causing the issue. Need to fix the connection issue to do that though.







