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No AC at idle or stop light

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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 10:41 PM
  #11  
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Temps here are 100+ and overheating is not a problem. I wouldnt think i was low on freon cause its still gets cold, cold enough for me to turn it down.
Ill check the idle control and get back to you.
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Old Jun 25, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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Proper operation of R134A systems require EXACT amounts of refrigerant for proper operation. If it's too low (or too high) by just a tiny bit, you're going to experience some problems. At idle, the compressor spins slower(duh, right?) and at a higher rpm, the pressures increase just enough for the system to work the way it should.

I could be wrong, but I've seen this enough times before. Just trying to give you some good advice so you don't chase your tail, wasting time & energy. R134A systems are way different than the old R12 systems.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 12:55 AM
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Good point. Thanks man. Ill look into that as well
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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I am having the same exact issue as the OP. Same remote start issue as well. I was thinking the compressor clutch was getting weak and just not engaging properly. All I have to do is turn off the a/c then turn it back on and it functions fine after that. Until the next time I shut off the truck anyway.
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Old Jun 29, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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x3... I'm having the same issue as well. Remote start and idle. I have only had the problem since I did the e-fan swap. It was fine before with the clutch fan.

I think it may be low idle or voltage, like said before. I'm going to check the a/c system and voltage first before I go changing the idle. I know my battery is probably getting tired. My alt is a new 180 amp.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 00Z71
Remove throttle body and clean... You idle control is dirty and when ac tries to kick in... idle goes down to low for coompressor... I have seen it happen too many times and more often in drive by wire
I've seen the throttle plate about twice as thick as it should be due to coking
from the EGR = low idle speed and no compressor

It's more noticeable on cable trucks as the throttle will stick off idle

And you can even jump the low preessure switch still no clutch

I agree clean the TB and you will have a\c
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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My AC did pretty much the same thing ever since I bought the truck. It didn't stop cooling completely, but it was blowing a hell of a lot warmer when the truck was sitting still or driving under 20mph. Even after my compressor went out and I replaced everything it still did the same thing. But a few weeks ago, I installed a set of 06 E-fans and that completely solved the problem. The cooling is much more consistent now. It blows just as cold whether I am driving 5mph or if its 75mph.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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If the AC system is low on freon, it will cause the compressor clutch disengage at idle and low rpm's which is why your ac is getting warm. Just start the truck and turn the ac on high, then watch the clutch on the outside of the pulley and see if it is disengaged or cycling off and on. If so, you most likely just need to add a little freon and it will fix the problem.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Sorry guys. Havent done much troubleshooting. Been busy and its too hot out there. I did try looking for the IAC. My truck is a DBW, does that mean I dont have one? I'll try the Tip listed above in a few mins
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 02'Z71ONDUBZ'
If the AC system is low on freon, it will cause the compressor clutch disengage at idle and low rpm's which is why your ac is getting warm. Just start the truck and turn the ac on high, then watch the clutch on the outside of the pulley and see if it is disengaged or cycling off and on. If so, you most likely just need to add a little freon and it will fix the problem.
Yup! Thats exactly what happening. Thanks for the help everyone
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