Well, I finally got my exhaust out. It's a lot easier on my 99 Silverado 2wd! I had a seized bolt on this (aftermarket?) clamp behind the torsion crossmember. I was finally able to remove the nut.

Then had to battle that little mount/hanger on the transmission. At some point I was doubting the darn things would come out, LOL.


The torque converter is for another project...😕


Is that exhaust clamp stock? The previous owner had some loud a$$ Flowmasters...I found an OEM muffler and got that installed at a muffler shop. The muffler itself is missing the hanger, 'cause it fell when I broke it lose here. Doh!

Yesterday I had removed the flexplate bolts. If it doesn't rain tomorrow I'll remove the bell housing bolts and drop the transmission.

 

That clamp does not look factory.

 

No indeed. Says "AccuSeal" on it.


Lots of non-factory stuff in your photos. Not that that's necessarily "bad"; just, don't think you're going to look it up in your FSM. Although, I see a great deal of sodomy going on in there; crush bends, too-small pipes half-*** welded into much bigger ones, necked-down pipes, ... it's just NASTY. Looks like largely time to start over fresh.

 

Ok, I finally was able to drop the transmission. Seal is indeed leaking. Inside of transmission bell housing also has oil flung onto it.

Here's my question now: do I install the crank seal on the cover, then install the cover? Or do I install the cover w/o the seal and instead with the centering tool, then install the seal on the crankshaft flange?

None of the YT videos I've seen on doing this job use the centering tool. 🤔🤷

There's your problem lady! 😊



I also bought that little barbell restrictor do-dad since I'm here.

 

Last time I pulled the cover off and did it on the bench without a seal centering tool.

 

If you want to use the tool you bought, install the cover with no seal then install the seal. You can do it the other way as well but then there would have been no reason to buy the tool. Video available on Saccitycorvette's site where they sell the tools.

 

Well, good news.

I was able to install the new rear main seal. I went to the SacCity website and watched the video. Pretty much installed it per their instructions, except I initially forgot to add the cover gasket. Doh! Had to do it twice.

I had decided to remove the torque converter on the transmission and clean the inside of the bell housing. I went to the local Whatever It Takes (first time going there) and bought a torque converter lock-up o-ring and front pump seal. Normally I wouldn't do this kind of thing




not sure why I decided to do it. Anyways, they must have me the wrong pump seal! It didn't fit. So I went to O'Reilly's and the second store had it. Had to give them the part number because it said that part "didn't fit my application."😬 It was National part number 714598. I removed the rear speed sensor to enlarge the hole on the bracket because I couldn't get the fuel lines to align with the little bracket again.

Monday night I got the thing back together and started it up. Didn't see any leaks. Took it for a spin and after the second or third shift it did a hard shift and the ABS & "Service brake" light came on. I also didn't have speedo. Did a U turn immediately and got back home. Checked and I had a P0502.

Last night I crawled under there and output speed sensor wires at the pigtail where missing insulation and touching each other. I put some electrical tape around them. Then the thing wouldn't start. It started and immediately die. Spent 2 hours checking stuff like fuses and fuel pressure. I put the battery charger overnight and this morning just got clicking. So I borrowed the battery from my 99 Silverado and she fired right up. Everything seems good 👍. The ABS light went away.

 

Very nice good to hear it.

 

Well, a comeback. :-(

I've got a vibration after 55 MPH. Definitely wasn't there before. I didn't clock the driveshaft, but I don't think that matters; it's the single piece, aluminum type. I'm going to rotate it 180 on the driveshaft yoke to see if it does anything. And look around to see if there's anything obvious.

I did jack up the front and did the "shake and spin" test. I have play when shaked at the 9 and 3 o'clock. No play on the 12 and 6 o'clock. And a bit of noise when I spin the wheels. So sounds like wheel bearings at minimum? Tie rods? I've never done suspension work beyond shocks and brakes.

 

I'm changing a front wheel bearing later today or tomorrow, it's up to my UPS guy.
The only symptom is the noise that sounds like dragging a piece of metal on the road. No vibration, no looseness, no steering irregularities, and no difference with the brakes applied or not.
When I jack up the front and spin the wheels, there's no difference side to side. When I take off the wheels and spin the rotors, I still can't tell. But when I take off the calipers and rotors, the bad bearing spins freely like it has no grease, and sounds like it is lubricated with sand instead.
I don't think that you have a bad wheel bearing, in the front anyway.