MorepowerTY

I'm sure some of you have already seen my thread on loss of power, but I'm trying to find the source.
Last month I was racing an SS and over revved my truck in first gear. The motor shut down at 6100 rpms and made a loud squeal. the truck still runs ok, but it doesn't do a burn out anymore. Its strange because, it never really did a very good burn out before I put the headers on, because of the 20" wheels, but when I put the headers on, it laid a patch from first gear into second. Great power. It feels like it did before the headers. The headers made it breath well, and now back to square one. Sometimes it runs good and sometimes it doesn't. The throttle use to be very touchy and have great power to the wheels, but now its like drivng against the wind and I have to put the throttle down more than a quarter the way down to get it moving. It's very frustrating to locate the problem. I've tried quite a few things learning from some of you guys, but nothing to seems to work. My tuner or the dealer cannot find the problem ethier. Has anybody out there had this same problem. Please help. I'm lost with out my horsepower.

RoninsDenali

iTrader: (1)

I can think of one thing to try.

Try resetting the PCM, either by disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes.
or
Turning the ignition on, and removing fuses 'PCM 1' and 'PCM B' for 10 minutes. The turn off ignition and plug said fuses back in.


What i'm trying to accomplish for you, is to see if your Long Term Fuel Trims are causing your engine to run rich. Which seems to fit the description of the problems you are describing. Also, with headers it seems possible that just made the long term problem worse by letting the O2's get cooler. (This is why i run Dual LC-1's simulating the Narrowband O2's as stock O2's can become very innacurate in a modified engine/exhaust situation)

Atleast its one more thing to try....

MorepowerTY

Thanks, I'll try the PCM 1, because I already did the battery for 1 hr. My tuner leaned it out to much also. i have to take it back to him Monday. He said he did a winter tune on it, but it was freaken 108 in Vegas today, and I had some ping'in going on. Not good for the motor.

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

I'm reaching here...

Could the squeal have been belt slip?
Maybe you glazed the belt or crank pulley and when you get on it now it slips a little costing you power.

MorepowerTY

You know, I was thinking about that too. Isn't there a torson pulley on there? One of my freinds that his was slipping and he was losing about 30hp. He had it tightened up and ran fine. Mine seems tight though, so its hard to tell. How much slack should be in it? Mine has about 1"in. and 1/4 play when I press hard. Today I tried what "Truck Addict" suggested and still nothing. I took off my throttle body spacer and that didn't help either. When I did take it off, it was filled with gunk, not to bad, but enough. Also I have the oiled Volant intake. Could it be that my injectors may be clogged sucking the oil and collected dust? It only has 26k on it though. So I thought I would try somethng different by taking out the fuse for the ECT/ECM which is the electronic throttle control module for 10 mins as well. It seemed to work alittle better but not much. Is there a sensor somewhere is the E-throttle somewhere, that maybe sticking or something? Or maybe the auto choke not working properly? There is a slight lag in the throttle when it is acting up, and not that much torque but when its working good, its instant throttle response and you can feel the torque.

1SlowHoe

iTrader: (28)

If you're worried about the oil on the filter, check your MAF sensor for buildup. Spray it down with some brake cleaner or electric cleaner. Spray it from a distance. Full blast out of the can at close range could damage the sensor. Get close enough to get it wet but not put pressure on the sensor wires. Hope I'm making sense.
Get a new belt, try it out. Most places will let you bring it back if it doesn't work, just dont drive around for a month before you decide it didnt work. Sounds like your tensioner is pretty tight so maybe the belt is just glazed. Cheap ways to rule out 2 possibilities.

MorepowerTY

Already cleaned the MAF sensor that didn't work either. Thanks anyway

TouchOfEvil04

iTrader: (13)

You could have a carbon build up and sometimes you notice it more than others...just reaching again as i replied in your other thread.Maybe run some top end engine cleaner through it like SEAFOAM.I did mine at like 30k and had a ton of smoke come with it which shows how much carbon i had.All you do is while the engine is warm and running undo the brake booster line...easy one little clamp...and suck up the SEAFOAM through that line.It should stall the engine after it gets so much of it in there.Thats fine its supposed to.If it sucks it all up and doesnt die kill it.Let it sit for 15mins then go drive it hard for about 5 mins or so.And watch the smoke show basically as it cleans out all the carbon in your engine.It helps with your throotle response and helps the idle as well.Gave me a noticeable differance when i did it to my truck.

MorepowerTY

Someone had mentioned before to have my truck checked for random misfires. This maybe a dumb question, but would the truck seem to still run as normal but not have the added low end torque or throttle response. Today it was a dog. Can a scanner or a tuner check the cats to see if they are clogged or maybe one of the smog check places check it. I haven't experienced clogged cats before, so I'm not sure if this could be the problem or not and with 26K can they clog that early? I took out the o2 in front of the cats, but it sounded like crap. Plus I couldn't get the passenger side out to check it. It was hard to tell the difference with the noise. I'm taking it to my tuner tomorrow after work and see if he can fix it one more time.

TouchOfEvil04

iTrader: (13)

For the cats just go to a basic muffler exhaust shop.Ask them to check your cats for you...they cna do it in less than 5 mins.Its just a heat test to make sure everything is flowing like it should.