Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

I'll be darned, the low and high spark tables were pretty much identical as you pointed out. Could this be why GM.ASPARK was 100% even during KR? I went ahead and put the stock low-octane table in.

Do you have a log that shows real knock?

Thanks for the help!

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

That "rocks in a can" sound is REAL knock....be weary...

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Yep, truth.

But there's something I overlooked here. You have a manual transmission, when you go to 100% TPS, you're rpms are staying lows 1700 and up because there's no downshift. This is big load on the engine. So that very well could be real knock, especially with the sawtooth appearance of the KR. Ferocity, I'd find out what cells in your spark table you're getting that knock at and take a couple degrees of timing out as needed. Or just go back to the stock timing table and then re-do it on your own.


This is good example of false knock in the log though:

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

I found the problematic cells and dropped them down a few degrees and manually smoothed the surrounding cells and also that 0 to 22 deg cliff. Also made a few changes to DFCO. I'll log again this morning and see what happens.

Thanks again!

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Let us know. BTW, I have burst knock zero'd out.

I see what happened though when I was looking at the log. I looked at your stock tune log which had no real knock.

But the mail order tune log definitely has real knock. The sawtooth pattern of the KR is the look for real knock.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

Is it safe to zero out burst knock?

Well the log this morning looks better, but still some knock in the same area. I'll shave off a couple more degrees and smooth it out.

Also, GM.ASPARK dropped to 98.5% at one point during the log right during KR, and again at some other times. Then it would go back to 100% after awhile. I would have expected it to drop much lower than this. I guess I'm not sure what ASPARK means exactly. I interpreted it as a linear scalar between the low and high octane tables.

If my VE Table is off, which I'm sure it is, is tuning spark a lost cause? Right now I'm just playing around and learning really. Also trying to make the current tune safer. Blackbear is going to do a mail order tune for me when the turbo goes on in a few weeks hopefully. Then I'll take his tune and tweak it accordingly.

What is the purpose of the optimal spark table?

Can I tune the VE table without a wideband? All of the tutorials I've read for EFILive seem to require a wideband.

Thanks!

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You can guess without a wideband, but you really need one to properly tune. ESPECIALLY with FI.

If its the same as hpt, the optimal spark table shouldnt be changed, thats just for pcm reference.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

It's perfectly safe to disable burst knock. Burst knock is the PCM pulling timing in anticipation of large changes in airmass over a short time. It's not based on the actual detection of knock.


Also, there are methods of tuning the VE table and MAF based on the o2 sensors, but I never looked into it because AutoVE is simple and works.

I would not bother tuning without a wideband. And given that you're getting real knock with the mailorder tune I would just put the stock tune back in since it seems to be safer for the time being.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

Backed another degree or two off the trouble areas and logged again, still got some KR but much less, and there was no more rattling sound.

So I worked the trouble areas again tonight and ended up with some cells in the high-octane table that were actually lower than those in the stock low-octane table. So instead I copied the high octane table to the low and subtracted 10 degrees from the entire table. I also need to figure out why my spark is consistently lower than what's commanded in the high octane table. While cruising none of the corrections appear to be used. The only one I'm unsure of is the spark correction for EGR, which I still have at the moment.

Could you further educate me on knock sensor sensitivity? Is it common to desensitize them with aftermarket valvetrain? My knock sensors are currently using the stock settings.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

You only desensitize when you know for sure youre dealing with false knock. Since you have no clue what your afr is at this time, i wouldnt touch anything related to knock sensor sensitivity.