joeyc125

iTrader: (7)

here is my tune, let me know if you have any questions about it.

Wilde Racing

iTrader: (26)

When you say it "stop for an instant like its trying to kick back then it starts" does it really stop? can you log it?

I personally dont see anything screaming in the tune....

Do you have a DVOM? Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

I'm looking at your tune now.......... Just throwing this one out there, my sis had a 98 S10 that would do exactly what you're describing. Long story short, it ended up being a bad fuel injector that leaked fuel into the cylinder thus hydrolocking the engine. When you'd go to start it, it didn't leak enough to break anything but you could definatly tell it was close. I think you should record and post a vid for us to listen to. You should put a fuel guage on the rail when the truck is idling, then shut off the truck. You should see how much of a pressure drop there is over a few hours.

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

Does the truck idle crappy once you do get it started?

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

Try this tune........ I modified your tune to all the same settings that I have (and I know mine will work). I left everything in your tune alone except for anything that relates to start up. Try it and report back

joeyc125

iTrader: (7)

ill give it a shot later when i get off work, super busy 14 hr days. The thing that gets me is it did it with two motors, starters, batteries, sets of fuel injectors etc... alot has changed with the swap but the prob is still there.

hirdlej

iTrader: (31)

Are you reusing the injectors with both engines? Sounds like a leaky engine, a bad PCM (or bad settings in the PCM that are consistent). Maybe you have an electrical problem in the dash or bad ignition switch. As always, start with the easy stuff first

Wilde Racing

iTrader: (26)

Yep,

I like the injector idea, sounds like a good fit....
Here is the easiest way I could think of to test that theory. Start the truck, let it run for a few seconds, shut it back off wait a max of 30 sec crank it again... no problem, start digging into the fuel system... harder to start the second time, start digging in the electrical side...

Although with a leaking injector I would think that cylinder would not come "on-line" for a few seconds while it was cleaning itself out like hirdlej mentioned earlier... Any signs of that happening joeyc125?

joeyc125

iTrader: (7)

no the injectors are new with this engine, i thought that was a possibility, and still could be. I have a pcm with a wheatley tune in it and my original with my tuning in it. I am running e85 now so once this tank is empty if i don't figure it out by then i am going to switch back to gas and try that again. it can sit for hours when its warm enough outside and it will be fine. i let it sit in the shop at work for about 5 hrs last night and it started fine, only has problems when the motor get below probably 45-50 degrees. Also is that amount of timing correct? i will post a log when i get a chance.

joeyc125

iTrader: (7)

also my starter took a **** a few weeks ago and i replaced it with the more powerful 6l one. Now when it does it you can hear it bog the starter. I lifted it up and tried starting it with my remote start and you can see the starter flex back and cause the gear to pop back in and grind the flexplate and come right back out. that is telling me it has plenty of power itself.