Another Blend Door Q
Feb 1, 2012 | 05:10 PM
#1
Another Blend Door Q
Ok ac blows hot on the driver side (intermintently). All other functions work great. I have the diagram from gm and they show 4 blend doors. Im guessing i need to change the one on the drivers side but i dont want to guess. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'll also need help finding it cheap because the dealership quoted me 300 for the blend door.
and of course they want 105 just to tell me witch one. Thanks!
and of course they want 105 just to tell me witch one. Thanks!
Feb 1, 2012 | 07:58 PM
#2
Iirc the one your lookin for is under the middle of the instrument panel. You would pull the lower cover off (under the glove box) and it would be visible on the bottom of the hvac box. I believe dorman makes replacement ones now.
Feb 2, 2012 | 05:03 PM
#3
hmmm not sure if thats right? one of the members swapped that blend door because the passenger side was blowing hot. Mine is on the driver. I hope its the one your talking about cause its easier to get to than the doors behind the dash. Anyone else have any ideas? thanks livefast1! what does iirc stand for?
Feb 4, 2012 | 09:41 PM
#7
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 870
Likes: 0
From: Enid, OK
The drivers side is the easy one, its on the bottom of the case. The passengers side is in the same location but on the top side of the case under the dash. Its the one every guy says they will just deal with and usually within a week or two is back because they are tired of hearing the wife bitch. Even it isn't that hard to get to if you know the tricks.
300 doesn't sound too far off. The actuator alone is somewhere in the 200-250 range plus about half an hour labor and a little diagnostic time. GM has had a slew of bulletins about actuator codes and defaults to full hot and what not on the 03+ dual zone systems. I've never found any of those bulletins to be of any help though. I always did a door recalibrate with the Tech 2 and if there were any weak actuators that usually killed them dead. There have been a few cases where I brought actuators back from the dead. You have to hit them just right, not too hard but just hard enough and they will sometimes come back to life. This is on ones that go dead after the battery has been unhooked for whatever reason.
300 doesn't sound too far off. The actuator alone is somewhere in the 200-250 range plus about half an hour labor and a little diagnostic time. GM has had a slew of bulletins about actuator codes and defaults to full hot and what not on the 03+ dual zone systems. I've never found any of those bulletins to be of any help though. I always did a door recalibrate with the Tech 2 and if there were any weak actuators that usually killed them dead. There have been a few cases where I brought actuators back from the dead. You have to hit them just right, not too hard but just hard enough and they will sometimes come back to life. This is on ones that go dead after the battery has been unhooked for whatever reason.
