heres the deal guys, i slung 2 rods and pulled the engine then it sat for about 2 years befoe i fooled with it . finally decide to put it back together so i got a rebuilt short block and installed all my vortec parts. well at first it ran really crappy and was'nt hitting on all cylinders , but we figured out the big wiring harness on top of the intake was not plugged in all the way. fixed that. well it still hasnt burned the paint off the number 8 cylinder header tube yet. its getting fire, new plugs. sometimes it feels like its running fine, sometimes it feels like its missing. idles ruff sometimes. i took it by autozone and they plugged there handheld cod reader in and it did nothing, said it was unable to link to computer. WTF IS WRONG WITH MY TRUCK. PLEASE HELP OUT. thanks for any help or ideas as to what it might be.

 

also everynow and then if i am just crusing around town, stop and go traffic and such it will sound like it kinda back fires out one of the pipes, not loud at all , sorta like a big air bubble coming up out the surface of water, you know what i mean. it only happens maybe once or twice the whole night of riding. do i need a new computer? also whaere is it at on my truck ? is it behind a kick panel like my old isuzu was ?

 

ok guys just got back from autozone again, they hooked there handheld code reader to it and it read it this time. it gave a code and the guy said it was a bad connection or bad o2 sensor. well i knew exactly what it was, when i gutted the convertors i cut the wires to one of them to get the convertors off. well i went outside and hooked them back together. i cant tell anydifferance at all and the check engine light still blinking. any suggestions ? they are know closed and i'll be at the hospital the next few days cause my wife is having our second child. maybe i can run it bye there again if i get a chance to leave the hospital.

 

When you put it back together, did you make sure the spider wires where clean(aka your fuel source). Sounds like your not getting fuel but did you change any of the stock calibrations like did you go with a bigger cam or more compression...need more info on that. Also, check for vaccum leaks and headers/exhaust leaks.

 

well i didnt get much info on the reman short block, but as far as i know its all stock. im going outside now to unplug the battery for a bit to try and reset the computer and ill check around for vacum leaks.

 

i'm gonna say the injectors are clogged up from sitting so long. also, if the ses light is blinking it's a misfire code which could be damn near anything.

 

has anyone ever had any dealings with the code readers from wal-mart ?

 

Not me personally.....I have a OBD-II scanner that I use.

 

I can tell you I had the EXACT same problem with my Vortec build. I don't know all the details of your build but I will tell you what I did....

I bought a 1994 K3500 Dually with a bad 6.5 diesel in it. I did want to replace it with another diesel and I just happened to have a 5.7 Vortec core. So I bored and stroked it to 383, and bought a stock Vortec intake, fuel injection, wire harness and PCM from some kid off Ebay. All these parts were from a 1999. I soon realized that the '99 had passlock and it would not let me start the engine. So I got another PCM from a 1996. It started but it misfired on cylinder 8. It also backfired. At this point I still had open headers and no exhaust yet. I found that a ton of raw fuel was coming out of the right header. Well I investigated...what I found was that the injector 8 driver circuit was grounded all the time causing the injector to open and dump a steady stream of fuel into the cylinder. I'm lucky it didn't hydro-lock! Turns out that the 1996 PCM used a different pin to control cylinder 8 than the 1999. So I just pulled the pin from the wire harness connector and moved it to the correct location and it ran great!

I'm not sure if this is your problem but it might help. I'm sorry I don't remember the pin numbers but if you can't figure it out looking at a wire diagram, maybe I can trace them down for you.

 

thanks for the info , but i dont think my problem is going to be the same as yours. i am using everything that originally came out of the truck except for the reman short block. im not a guru at mechanics, but if it was a wrong cam would that cause this? because when we put the engine in and went to set the valves, we used a chilton repair manual on my truck and when we did it the way the book said it wouldnt even crank, but we did it the old fashioned way and it fired right up.