90mm TB and X link issue
04-14-2014, 07:46 PM
#25
Not to jump the thread but I've been having a similar issue as well. I've had my X-link for over a year now and just recently I started throwing intermittent P2135 and P0220 codes at start up or deceleration - never at WOT. I was running a gold blade LS3 TB so swapped it out for a ported silver blade LS2 this weekend. Ran fine for about 80 miles then did it again. After beating my head against the wall I found a thread with similar issues from earlier this year and as nuts as this sounds I'm trying it. Having already verified that my charging system was good and all grounds were in tact and checking the wiring from the TB harness for play I removed the X-Link from its mounted position on the intake, wrapped it in electrical tape as a shield and zip tied it to the heater hose. Seems another user had an issue with the X-link shorting itself out and once he shielded it he had no more problems with it throwing codes. I drove it hard today and fingers crossed - no codes. The X-Link is a great product but even great products crap out under constant heat and use so I'm hoping this is it. I'll be ordering a new 4.0 version once they're back in stock. Hope this helps...good luck.
04-14-2014, 09:35 PM
#27
Is the trigger wire still disconnected?
A P2135 can be related to a battery/charging issue, so that may explain why it went away. Have you done the P1518 checks in the troubleshooting document? Anything that causes the PCM and TAC module to not powerup at exactly the same time, or a TAC module reboot, can cause this.
What happens if you clear the code then quickly turn the key from off to start (i.e. start the engine) without pausing at the run position? Does the code still come back?
Can you test with a different 2003 -2005 TAC module? A few seem to be more sensitive to the 90mm TPS setup.
04-14-2014, 09:56 PM
#28
Not to jump the thread but I've been having a similar issue as well. I've had my X-link for over a year now and just recently I started throwing intermittent P2135 and P0220 codes at start up or deceleration - never at WOT. I was running a gold blade LS3 TB so swapped it out for a ported silver blade LS2 this weekend. Ran fine for about 80 miles then did it again. After beating my head against the wall I found a thread with similar issues from earlier this year and as nuts as this sounds I'm trying it. Having already verified that my charging system was good and all grounds were in tact and checking the wiring from the TB harness for play I removed the X-Link from its mounted position on the intake, wrapped it in electrical tape as a shield and zip tied it to the heater hose. Seems another user had an issue with the X-link shorting itself out and once he shielded it he had no more problems with it throwing codes. I drove it hard today and fingers crossed - no codes. The X-Link is a great product but even great products crap out under constant heat and use so I'm hoping this is it. I'll be ordering a new 4.0 version once they're back in stock. Hope this helps...good luck.
Vibration of the wiring can also result in internal breaks anywhere along the length of the wires over time, just as is common with the factory wiring.
Pop the purple clips off the backs of the connectors and give each wire a little tug to check for any separation from the terminals.
Be careful with the unit strapped to the heater hoses. Ensure that there is enough slack in the wiring for when the engine twists on startup. I did this once during development and pulled the wires out of the connector.
04-15-2014, 12:07 PM
#29
Found out the battery charger I was using wasn't charging the batteries. Bought new charger and got the batteries to charge. The only code now is the P1518, cleared code and it started right up. Throttle was working fine. I turned truck of, then back on and wouldn't start again, I had to delete the P1518 code again to get it to start again.
04-15-2014, 06:32 PM
#30
I believe that was an older style unit with the rubber grommets. There should be no continuity between any of the X-Link leads and the metal box when tested with an ohmmeter.
Vibration of the wiring can also result in internal breaks anywhere along the length of the wires over time, just as is common with the factory wiring.
Pop the purple clips off the backs of the connectors and give each wire a little tug to check for any separation from the terminals.
Be careful with the unit strapped to the heater hoses. Ensure that there is enough slack in the wiring for when the engine twists on startup. I did this once during development and pulled the wires out of the connector.
Vibration of the wiring can also result in internal breaks anywhere along the length of the wires over time, just as is common with the factory wiring.
Pop the purple clips off the backs of the connectors and give each wire a little tug to check for any separation from the terminals.
Be careful with the unit strapped to the heater hoses. Ensure that there is enough slack in the wiring for when the engine twists on startup. I did this once during development and pulled the wires out of the connector.