subeone

okay, then where that A is at there is a C as well, if you hit that, it will tell you how many times you hit that cell. Whenever you can check your logs and click the C and only multiply %-half on the cells that have at least 50 hits. anything below that will probably be inaccurate data.

as far as tips, setup your histograms, PIDS before you even get to the truck setup a config file. Wideband tuning is ridiculously easy, but another tip i would give you is to create a custom PID where your LTFT's add to your STFT's, and you would get an in between value. STFT's are not that great to tune your truck, if anything i recommend LTFT's as they are more refined values.

Reading is key especially when the tables have disgusting words that you can barely understand.

you can google 'how to make custom PID hptuners' and you will get your answer, or you can also look at this video

LNF Scanner Setup Video - YouTube


it will show you a lot of great features and how to set up your tables and histograms which is the KEY to tuning with HPtuners.

2Slow_00

Drove 47 miles hitting as much STFT as I could, got a really good count for my 60-75 mph, some over 1,000 when I copied and pasted ( multiplied by %-half ) my 3D graph looked WAY better and was very smooth unlike past graphs. I will do the same thing in the morning.

Any help on how I should change my injector timing due to the cam exhaust duration changing and letting raw fuel out? ( that I can smell)

Thanks for the video, long but informative!

subeone

your cam 228/228 .588 with 114LSA

increase your normal table under injection timing by 15%, aka write 1.15 in the section and then press the multiply button to the whole table, all your values should increase by 15%, the increase in the values references a greater delay on when to inject the fuel so the overlap doesnt shoot raw fuel out the exhaust. The greater delay will try to time the fuel when the exhaust valve is closing since you have overlap. If you didn't have much overlap or none then the delay could be left stock TBH. So generally speaking there is a spreadsheet for this which I can't find right now, but a 15% increase to the whole table should be just about right if i am not mistaken, play around with the values by no greater than 20% from stock. Once you find that "sweet spot" where you dont smell fuel or misfire as bad, you WILL have to calibrate your VE table in the lower rpm's. Once you are in higher rpm's the delay time you just messed with AKA injection timing will be insignificant since at 4000 rpms, there is 66 revolutions of the crank per second which in this case would be insignificant at what time your injector injects since at those RPM's your duty cycle will be pretty moderate and hence seem static to the naked eye.

regardless, calibrating this will help greatly with low end torque and sputtering.

IF you want the stock formula to derive what you want in degrees so you can figure out then have a look at what i have here


-784 (this is a constant, it will always be there) + ((boundary+normal)*90) (boundary is 6.5 stock and normal is usually 5.5 stock if you look at your table)

the 90 is a reference point in degrees, so your answer will be in units of degrees.

so if you had stock cam, and stock fuel injection timing table this is what occurs

-784+((6.5+5.5)*90)= 296 degrees into the rotation before the intake valve opens is when this injection ends.

So if you think about it, 360-296=64 degrees before the intake valve opens is when the stock timing table decides to end the fueling, so the fueling begins several degrees before and ends at 64 degrees before the intake valve opens.

What you are trying to do is inject much later into the portion of your overlap once the exhaust valve is closing so your fuel doesnt get scavenged out.

So a bigger number in the normal table would mean a later injection time. So if we increase the 5.5 value to say a 15% increase we get 6.32

so -784+((6.5+6.32)*90) is 369.8 degrees or 9.8 degrees AFTER the intake valve opens, depending on your duration, you can adjust accordingly. I am not too familiar with v8 cams so i could not approach with much help as i have tuned dohc japanese engines only, and i am barely beginning to understand v8 cam specs.

I tried to look up your cam specs and i believe your Intake valve OPENS at 356 degrees, or 4 degrees before top dead center. Your exhaust valve closes at 356 degrees before top dead center, so it doesn't seem you have any overlap???

Regardless your intake valve opens 4 degrees before TDC so in that case use some basic algebra

-784 + ((6.5+x)*90=356 to solve for x. x=6.16, so that would be the value you put in your table if you wanted your injector to end the fuel injection right when the valve is opening. which i dont recommend as the fuel will not atomize (vaporize) well due to the small time frame of when the fuel is injected and when the valve opens. you want to inject fuel about 20 degrees or so before the intake valve opens.


But due to the theory of overlap and scavenging, this should not heal your fuel troubles due to how mild your cam is ( ASSUMING I KNOW HOW TO READ THESE DAMN AMERICAN CAMS LOL) .

If you have aftermarket injectors or a non referenced fuel pressure regulator check that out before you mess with the timing in my opinion, it wont hurt to mess with it, but recommend to do that first .


man its 3:30 am i am dead tired, i have university finals tomorrow haha hope you understand this, let me know if you dont i will try to help out as i am just 21 years old with a busy schedule haha


EDIT: try this value and if what i am thinkin is correct it should work,

-784+((6.5+x)*90)=360, x=6.21

try 6.21 and 6.16, let me know which smells less like fuel. 6.21 should smell less like fuel if i am correct. every .10 is 8 degrees by the way. so i delayed fuel by 4 degrees, 6.21-6.16=.05=4 degrees

2Slow_00

I graduated last summer so i know exactly how those all nighters go and goodluck with finals.

I'm getting a KR of up to 8deg when I'm driving and add about 8-10% throttle or so ( I can feel the truck bogging when it happens). Any idea on what could cause that? As I understand KR is bad ( it's good to prevent damage but bad to have).

Thanks for the help on the cam math and injection time, I'm going to try it and see if it helps out!

subeone

Thanks i just came back and im glad to report everything went great

KR of 8 deg? what fuel are you using? 87 89 or 93?

what you are experiencing is due to the burst knock retard, go to your spark table, then click the retard tab. on the right there should be a burst knock retard section with two tables, one is enable delta and the other is "vs. rpm". I zero them out and you can too, or if anything multiply all of the values by .30 to reduce them by a margin of 70 percent. What that is in short is, when you do transient or changing throttle conditions, your pcm tries to anticipate knock due to the increase in airflow, and retards timing even if no knock is present. I usually try to zero out most of the timing modifiers such as the one i mentioned so i can run the vehicle purely on the main high octane table, then once that is figured out, i can add some values back in for safety if needed. But i always zero out burst knock retard tables. THIS IS OF COURSE YOU ARE RUNNING AT LEAST 89 octane OR not so crazy timing.

and no problem! let me know how it goes with the injection times!

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

KR could be false. I was getting false KR even with my puny cam. I couldn't hear it pinging, I tried higher octane fuel, tried pulling timing in the problem area, nothing helped. It was not burst KR, which you can log if you want, burst KR is not logged as retard due to knock. I was only getting it in the 1200-1800RPM range and 10-30% throttle.

subeone

correct. it could be real knock. as far as the KR table, i thought burst knock was recorded as KR last time i checked. either way, you can monitor all of your spark adders and retarders in your table in the vcm scanner to see what is either pulling timing or advancing timing in this case.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (59)

It's not in EFILive, might be in HPT.

subeone

AH. youre talking about EFIlive, misunderstood

2Slow_00

Ok I havn't had time to change the injector timing ( busy with work ) but I did change my idel RPM to 800 and it runs a lot better, at red lights and full stops, no more shifting to N while sitting inplace. Although it does shift Very hard when I go from a stop to R or D. ((EDIT) seems to be that when i changed the RPM to 800 is when it started shifting so hard, I dont mind it, I just dont need any excessive strain on that weak POS 4L60E! But I am ready to have the power to break it Again.))

I run 93, well I put the top grade in where ever im at. Did that even before the cam swap. I will change the knock setting when I get a chance and let you know how it goes. Im trying to change one variable at a time and drive awhile to see how things go before I change Everything and not know what did what.

Just to be sure, I change my Boundary under Engine-Fuel-General- Injection Timing, Boundary, it is now set on 6.50 and i need to try it on 6.21 and 6.16 right?