Sorry for the original post grammar. I was on new meds.
Been getting 55mA drain and some say its at the top of the acceptable limit but I park my truck or weeks and its just too much.The battery is an Odyssey Extreme with more than its share of years but still strong.
So I went hunting for relief, and pulling the J Case 40A fuse for IGN A made the draw drop to .002 -001.Nice.
It somehow came back up to 29mA so I plucked more fuses finding PCM B fuse to drop the draw when pulled. I suspect some of the fuses I pulled to test made the dual zone HVAC default to Auto the next cycle on and there could be a draw. I have read complaints about the dual zone causing issues, I since have it not defaulting to Auto and she is back a 0mA again with my band-aid installed.

I Temporarily have a solid state relay in the IGN A fuse line to disconnect it at shut down. She is 0mA with key off. My radio and Dual Zone keep their presets. My goal was to patch it until I could start digging hard into it to find the root draw.
I needed a trigger circuit to close the relay @key on, so when at Key start IGN A would be live but didn't want to tap something critical so I used the 20A B/U LP circuit. If you move the key this is hot, shifting to reverse does not loose power. I think the devices it controls are switched at the grounds.

 

No one reading aye? Anyone hear of the dual zone control causing a draw when it was set to auto when shut down?

 

Yes, I have heard of that. I posted a link to a video a few months ago where the guy was trying to figure that out. Try pulling the plug from the ac module and see if your draw goes away.


I was actually just trying to figure out a parasitic battery drain on my 04 project suburban. The guy I bought it from told me it drained the battery and said the cluster had been rebuilt at some point. I hadn't really messed with the proper procedure until today but often the battery was dead. So I have a 330 mA draw from the DIC fuse showing on the Klein from and small voltage drop across the fuse showing on the yellow dvom. If I pull the fuse the draw goes to 10 mA. I'm pretty sure it's something with the cluster. This truck has the manual slider temperature control, not the auto version.

 

Copy That Thanks,

So.......... I want to report my temp fix of the IGN A interrupt with relay really shuts the truck drain down to 0.001, sometimes zero. And I keep all presets. Now there is no rush to hunt the culprit.
At shut off there is the usual draw, then steps down to 0.039, then completely off. The trigger voltage I tapped is the 20A fuse B/U LP.


Parasitic Drain Stop

The little time delay solenoid you see in the pic is for my other battery isolation relay. https://www.waytekwire.com/product/t...02-bear-series
It has nothing to do with the temp fix.I start the truck on the main alone and after 90 seconds the secondary is connected. Its a Big Bear solenoid.

 

Take it to a dealer or shop and have the BCM, HVAC module and the driver and passenger door modules reflashed with newest updates. Those trucks had tons of gremlins and reflash is cure for most even if it's not called out in the flash update. I did a bunch of these back when these trucks were new same complaint.
Rewire it to stock before you take it in.
Your driving windows 95 and it's getting glitchy.

 

I've got 3 vehicles with auto modes on the climate control and I have to confess I've never used that mode. I gotta set the temp/etc. myself.

Richard

 

Hey @strutaeng Is that relay on the right upside down?

 

I went to look and it looks like that's for the ignition. I don't think it matters which way it goes that type of relay.

 

Relay can go in either way the terminals are opposed so it works either direction.85,86 are coil and 87/30 are X pattern so either way it's turned is a correct direction.

 

Interesting, since they are offset if one needed a little room the swap moves it a tad. I guess if it did matter the instant you tried to run the truck you would find out aye?