^imo, this is a crazy build for the price. If only it were a little closer...lol

 

Maryland is only 8 hours away!

 

This is OBO, so I will entertain offers.

 

Little test drive to make sure its good to go.

 

damn this is tempting.

floor shifter or electronic t case?

stock cam or aftermarket?

Turbos are internally gated? How well does the controller manage boost levels?

What fuel pump? Stock returnless system? Lbs/hr on the injectors?

Stock tq converter?

1350 solid u joints?

Drum or disks in rear?

How well does the a/c work?

What kind of tune is currently in this thing? what MAP sensor?

How confident are you that this could serve as a reliable DD and not overheat in 100+ temps?

 

Since you organized your questions so neatly lol...

Truck came with a floor shifter, I converted it to NP246 electronic shift.

Stock.

Yes, internally gated. Kept the packaging very neat and uncluttered, though some might consider it unsightly... Its functional, and that's what I wanted. I've run this boost controller before and had no issues, total control from 5psi to 25psi...controller is good to 40psi.

Stock fuel system, with exception of FFV LY6 injectors, 50lb. Fuel system is temporary.

Yes.

Yes.

Drums.

Before I built the kit and had to route a charge pipe where the high pressure line was, it worked great. The line does not reach the condenser with the charge pipe in the way. I went to a junkyard to grab the blocks from a pressure line/condenser, but I couldn't get them separated...Michigan corrodes aluminum parts together. So as of now, AC is non-functional. But with $5 in parts that aren't corroded and $20 two minute TIG welding job, and a fresh charge, AC will work great like it did before. The rest of the AC system is unmodified. I was thinking about removing it anyway...

smokeshow tooned, obviously. Until my cable bricked the old PCM and made me never want to connect it to the truck again. Needs some idle airflow work, which I cannot do anymore. But fueling is rock solid. You can thrash on it if you feel like it. HPT 3 bar OS, 2 bar MAP sensor. Since you're EFI live, you'd have to set up your own stuff.

My requirements for this build did not include DD duties, but with that said...I'm sure it would do fine as is. I prefer to keep my builds as OE as possible to maintain reliability, unless something must be changed to accommodate the modifications. All of the hot pipes are fiberglass wrapped until the X pipe under the truck, so that heat shouldn't be much of an issue. I always did my hot testing in the summer in Phoenix, but I don't live in AZ anymore. I built this one to similar specs as far as cooling system and intercooler placement go. Last twin turbo truck had an ETS intercooler, this one has Treadstone, both placed in front of the radiator. With the AC on as cold as I felt comfortable with, 110° AZ heat, it did great...185 ECT in town with the 160 thermostat. Highway cruising at 75 would see temps creep up to 215, I'm assuming due to the additional thermal load on the cooling system from the water cooled turbos. It is a very capable radiator for just being a stock piece. This truck would probably react similarly, maybe run a little cooler in the same conditions due to the placement of the turbos.

Why do you want it as a DD? What happened to the corvette idea?

 

Z06 plans have been in full effect, just have been doing my typically months of research. I still cringe at the thought of spending 80k on a car, even though I know it's an amazing machine.

So with that said, I've been DD'ing the old turd, with a motor that struggles to rev thru the CD triple disk. And then there's this transmission. Would shift amazing with the S480 at 22 psi, but being n/a and all it wants to rip the truck in half on WOT shifts.

I've ALWAYS wanted a 4WD after years of dealing with 2wd fuckery. I'm sure your truck would be a stoplight to stoplight monster. I just don't have time to work on a truck anymore. Ridiculous as it is, not having functional A/C would be a deal breaker; truck would be undriveable here in Houston without A/C in the summer.

 

Ah. Well like I said, it's an easy fix if you have a minute to spend at the junkyard. I can't find the parts online, nobody sells just the small parts I need...has to come from somewhere without corrosion. AC notwithstanding...this truck isn't a stoplight to stoplight monster. Not yet. It needs work before that. So if you don't want a project, this wouldn't be a good fit for you anyway.

 

Here's a picture for anybody curious what I mean about needing to extend the AC line... As you can see, the charge pipe pushes the line away from the condenser. All I do is go to a junk yard with junk that isn't rusted/corroded, find a wrecked truck, and cut those blocks off the condenser and refrigerant line with some extra length on them. Then flip them around, trim the line as necessary, and TIG them together. Then you just drop it in and charge your AC.

 

well, I commented because I know this is a hell of a deal for what parts we're looking at here.

I'd say with around 6-7k in parts for driveline and fuel system this thing would be darn near bulletproof for 9s.