dry_kill

iTrader: (12)

Car is a 94 honda accord with a 2.2 engine, automatic. took it to get the inspection, thought it would pass since the check engine light isnt on or anything. The guy said it failed the High speed emission part. This is what it reads:
Standard Reading Current Reading
HC (ppm)- 127 1017 FAIL
CO (%)- 0.71 1.70 FAIL



so what exactly does this mean? what should i do to pass this test the next time? I asked the guy what exactly i should do but he didnt have a clue.

larsy87

put in a cutout before the catalytic converter

cdub81

iTrader: (2)

theres obviously high hydrocarbon on the run is there any vacuum leaks and are all the emmisions controls operating right?? Also check the catalytic converter i used to do inspections on the dyno and catalytic converters were to blame most of the time but you have high hydrocarbon reading which imo there is a bad vacuum leak etc etc usually when it was a bad converter it was the NOX reading that was high

dry_kill

iTrader: (12)

the NOX reading passed, standard for NOX said 910 and my current reading was 176. I havent found any vacuum leaks. The car does get a slight shake around 50mph. I checked the spark plugs but they all look pretty good. Im thinking maybe the spark plug wires might be bad

cdub81

iTrader: (2)

Quick little google search.... Its saying check these in that particular order

Originally Posted by b20guy
OK JV, here you go... This is a suggested order for NOx failure of things to check:
1. EGR System
2. O2 Sensor
3. Timing/Spark Advance
4. Catalytic Converter
5. Incorrect/faulty thermostat
6. Coolant Temp Sensor may be open
7. MAP Sensor
8. MAF Sensor
9. Other sensors/switchs (uhhh yeah, ok)
10. Fuel Injection System
11. Faulty On-Board COmputer
12. Computer PROM
13. Internal Engine Repair

High HC Failure:
1. Spark Plugs and Wires
2. Timing Spark Advance
3. Vacuum Leaks
4. Other Ignition Problems
5. O2 Sensor
6 Evaporative fuel system
7. Fuel Injection System
8. Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
9. PCV System
10. Catalytic Converter(s)
11. Throttle Position Sensor
12. MAP Sensor
13. MAF Sensor
14. Other Sensors/Switchs (dohh, again)
15. Computer PROM
16. Internal Engine Repair

High CO Failure

In the case of carb engines, up to 85-86
1. Choke System
2. Carburetor Repair

In the case of fuel injected engines, from 1986 on,
1. Fuel Injection System
2. Induction system problems
3. O2 Sensor
4. TPS
5. MAP
6. MAF
7. Coolant Temp Sensor may be closed
8. OTher sensors/switches (I guess this is a CYA thing (cover your ***)
9. Valve train problems
10.Jumped engine timing belt
Plus...
Idle speed adjustment
Air Filter Condition
Thermostatic Air Cleaner
Air Injection/Reaction System
EVAP fuel system
Oil and Filter Change
Catalytic Converter
Computer PROM

dry_kill

iTrader: (12)

thanks good info. really not a way to check most of the stuff though right? just pretty much start replacing stuff

03 BLACKOUTSSS

iTrader: (3)

Not true, its time consuming and can be a pain in the ***, but here's how I would go about it.


High HC Failure:
1. Spark Plugs and Wires
replace plugs and check ohms resistance through each wire
2. Timing Spark Advance
Need a high tech scanner but most repair shops have them
3. Vacuum Leaks
Ghetto way #1 : is to hook a vac gauge to the line going to the brake booster and stare at the gauge while slowly revving the engine. Look at the vac at idle, after each throttle input change, you'll see a vac drop, but it should return to close to idle vac #s
Ghetto way #2 : get some extra (4ft or so) of 3/8" heater hose. One end goes in your ear, the other gets moved along all the sealing surfaces. You'll hear a leak if you have one.
4. Other Ignition Problems
no idea
5. O2 Sensor
scanner again, looking to see if they are operating within their mV range. You want to see a quickly moving range between about 150mV and 850mV. Sluggish ranging or pegged anywhere in that range and the O2 is dead or dying.
6 Evaporative fuel system
??? Charcoal canister is always the recommended fix, but the recirc. pump could be taking a ****, or acting as your vacuum leak (not sure how, but I think that can happen)
7. Fuel Injection System
8. Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment
Scanner, looking at duty cycle
9. PCV System
Replace the PCV Valve (real cheap)
10. Catalytic Converter(s)
11. Throttle Position Sensor
12. MAP Sensor
13. MAF Sensor
14. Other Sensors/Switchs (dohh, again)

Do some research, find out the normal operation output signal signals of the sensors, then with a multimeter/ohmsmeter, get to checking simply by jumping the meter's leads into the molex plug for that sensor. Just make sure that you are looking at the right wires. Some will have input signals and output signals, so a wiring schematic is needed.
15. Computer PROM
You can mod it, or replace it, but you'll forever be labeled a "Ricer"!!!
16. Internal Engine Repair
Sell it.


Like I said, very time consuming, and a pain in the ***, but you'll save yourself some money. Hope this helps.

BlackGMC

iTrader: (31)

I say seafoam the crap out of it. Also run some good fuel injector cleaner through it

charcold-bowtie

iTrader: (10)

I say just go somewhere else, but im from small town.

Is it really that hard to get an inspection in houston/dallas?

When I got my benzo inspected, my Hi beams didnt work, as well as there was something else major.... They just slapped a sticker on it. Ive also gotten my old "black widow" expected with no exhaust on it...

dry_kill

iTrader: (12)

well i did a mild tune up on it, changed plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel pump, ran gas treatment through it, distributor cap, distributor rotor. so if it fails again then ima just take it and get the sticker from a friendly place for $100 bucks