I have to disagree with you on this.

Don't listen to shops. Buy the sub you want, determine the kind of box you need for your uses(sealed, ported or bandpass) and read your subs instruction manual to determine the size from there. Your best results will be from the instruction manual.

The amp does matter, but not significantly. The box is responsible for 75% of your subwoofer sound. If memory serves me, to get 3 more decibels of output, you need 150 more watts.

So your running a 500 watt sub at 400, and you think going to a 500 watt amp will make it louder...it might but not a whole lot.

 

I have to disagree there. Amp makes a huge difference in output of a woofer. Take that "flea market boss 3000w amp." That thing is built just well enough to be considered a paper weight. You'd be lucky to get 1000w rms out of it, and then the sound would be HORRIBLE. Put that up next to a crown/jbl 1200w amp and it will put it to shame. The DB's has nothing to do with wattage. If you go to sound comps, they have different classes you can be in, depending on the number of subs, wattage, type of box design, and other factors. People in the 0-600 class with 1 or 2 subs with 600wrms or less are hitting in the 150 db's, why? Because of the box design and type of vehicle it's in. A properly designed ported enclosure with a quality woofer will sound just as good or better than a sealed enclosure. The only good thing about a sealed enclosure is that it produces a relatively flat response curve, that is, with not near the db spike at frequency x, x being whatever frequency the box resonates at. Again, I recommend you call Scott at www.ficaraudio.com, talk to him, see what he recommends for you. He makes GREAT QUALITY stuff for reasonable prices. You can get something like his sD series that is his "intro line" or step up to his BTL line which is primarily used for SPL. I was, however, suprised at the musical quality of the BTL subs. If you had the BTL lined up with the Kicker SoloX of the same size, same wattage, same "RECOMMENDED" enclosure, the BTL would hang with the SoloX or beat it in SPL output, and sound MUCH better with regular music. The SoloX is a pretty nice sub, don't get me wrong. Those who tell you it isn't musical are sadly mistaken. I'm just not going to support a company who produces 2 good products (SoloX and their amps). Hope this helps

 

Remember Gentlemen


and both of you sound exactly like this

 

This thread is funny because 90% of the people in it know NOTHING about subwoofers or car audio in general. How can you make a statement like "1 12" is louder than 2 10's or 1 15" is louder than 10 10" subs?"
You can go to wallmart and buy a $50 15" sub that has 2000 watts max. Is it gonna sound good? **** no.

It is as ignornant to say "1 12 is better than 2 10's" as it is to say "12's are good for rap, 10's for rock"

It all depends on what you want and how much you want to spend.

Some things to consider:
The box is a HUGE part of the sound quality. I think everyone can agree there. For a crew cab, sealed is a MUST. No if's and's or but's about it. A ported enclosure requires more airspace to sound good and space is not something crew cab's have behind their seats.

Also, the AMP is a HUGE part as well. Many amps create distortion no matter how big or small, but generally the more you spend the less noise and distortion is will create and the greater RMS(normal power) wattage it will produce. So pick a quality amp(Kicker, MTX's high end stuff, JL, even audiobahn has some good amps) that is rated for your subs(in RMS not Max power). Your amp should be the most expensive part of your sound system. People ALWAY skimp here and wonder why they have $500 subs that sound like ****.

Another issue is obviously the subs. In the case of crew cabs, you need something with little mounting depth. It's not that you can't fit 12's behind the seat, it's the fact that many 12" subwoofers require more airspace and have a greater mounting depth than a 10" sub of the same model and brand. So in this instance, go with 2 10" subwoofers. Infinity's line is very popular for shallow mount subs. I believe JL's w0 line will fit as well.

Please people, don't be ignorant. If you don't know what the hell you're talking about(other than hearsay) don't post up.

 

I'm glad someone agrees with me... Thanks

 

I have the new e.d. shallow mount subs, I'm very impressed in all aspecs.

I have 4 10" in 1.4 cuft and I doubt you could get louder based on air space. I had to use a real shallow mount sub or a 8" sub. I have had massive stereo's in the past and the sq10's turned out as much volume as any low line of subs.

I would rate high in sound quality but they did let me down in output but then again I rilly rilly doubt anything would be louder in a sealed 1.4cuft.

 

 

These arguments are hilarious. I dont know a ton about subs but i have had my share of sound systems and in my experience any sub no matter what size can thump. For example the JL w7 8" is small however would easily blow two average 10's out of the water. i have a JL w7 12" with a 1001 BD Rockford fosgate amp and it easily out hits two JL w6 v2s which are pretty solid non comp 12s. As such the piont i am trying to make is it doesnt matter what size your subs are the real determining factor in how clean the subs will sound/how hard they hit is the amp that you have. and the depth of your sub. That is when yall put two 10s behind the seat they will not hit the deep bass notes at all. Simply because they are not deep enough and you dont have enough sir space. If yall really want something that hits in a single cab truck get one twelve and have a ported box made that takes up the area behind both seats. This will give you max airspace while still allowing you adequate foot room. I dont know if this answered anything but i just wanted to put my 2 cents in since i dont know **** about truck perf. haha

 

Again, the size of the woofer doesn't matter as far as the "deepness" of output. I will admit that a 15" woofer will have an easier time producing, let's say, 20hz than would an 8 or 10" woofer. The reason most 10's don't produce such low frequency response in a regular cab is simply because of the box design. Naturally, your low end is going to be more pronounced in a ported enclosure than in a sealed enclosure due to the resonance (whatever tuned frequency) inside the box. Some say that sealed sounds better than ported, which is partially true. A sealed box tends to produce a "flatter" response than a ported box simply because the meaning behind a ported box is to excenuate (spell check) the low end frequencies, rather than the higher-end frequencies. A sealed box has the ability to produce a larger spectrum of frequencies, cleaner than a ported box, but only in the 80+ hertz, which is quite high for subwoofers anyways.

I agree with your 1 12" that it will produce a richer, more pronounced sound than if you had 2 10's sealed. It all comes down to personal preference. If you're happy the way your 2 10's in a sealed box sound, great. If not, you should open yourself up to other alternatives. Ported boxes, when designed correctly, can sound just as good or better than sealed It's all in what you know about physics and acoustics

 

ramdaspadhye,

Good job man... It sucks that there are so many people Out there refuse to listen and actually learn something so that the next time, they dont get stuck with 2 Sony 15's and a Koiiler amp...

BTW, heard any of the TC Sounds woofers yet? Been looking at them...