mikeyjm1

Here's some shots my wife just sent of mine... (excuse the mess, been gone for about 10 months)

Sypher

That first one looks pretty good. I asked them what the benefit of running separate amps would be and they said "If you don't mind doing the separate amps, that would probably be better. That way you could match up a great amp for the subs and match up a great amp for the speakers. When going with a five channel it's tough to find one that matches everything perfectly"

What's your opinion on that? And your setup looks pretty slick

mikeyjm1

I see their point but they recommended amps that are equivalent to the like 5 channel ones. In that case a 5 channel saves space and lots of wire: double power wire or distribution and possibly a few RCAs between. Just much easier unless you have a wall of subs and the need for separate amps.

...And Thanks

Sypher

Okay so I had a buddy ride with me and we did some investigating on what my speakers are doing....my left side has no speakers that actually work....the tweeter works but neither door speaker works, absolutely silent. The right side door speakers work okay but the tweeter is constantly fuzzy, screeching and cutting in and out like it's blown...so, first step is getting new speakers, those Rockford ones I posted originally will work well since they're full range ones with tweeters already, and then I'll just unplug the stock tweeters. But why would neither door speaker be working at all on the drivers side???

mikeyjm1

Id pull them and test the individual speakers first. Unplug one and test the impedance of it. Unless things have changed or its a Bose system, it should read about 4 ohms. If its way off or doesn't match close to what's marked on the back, its probably bad.
Next pull the radio and see if these continuity from the radio harness to the speaker. A really easy way is if you can get a radio install harness; Plug it in and put a meter lead on each end. If you don't have a meter, a quick check is tapping the + and - for that speaker to the same on a battery. If the speaker pops its getting a signal.

Bluecobra

The 2011 crew cab I recently purchased had two working speakers in it. The front doors were working but scratchy. I replaced all 4 doors with 6.5 Infinity 2 ways that were about $50/pair from Crutchfield. The Infinity .75 inch tweeters fit the stock location perfectly - I had to use the hot glue gun to attach them to the grill but it works. Sounds awesome for a factory radio. My other truck has 2 amps with a sub and Infinity speakers all around with a Kenwood deck. It only sounds better because of the sub.

slo04

If your wanting to replace the speakers I'd go with a component set for the fronts they will replace the midbass and tweeters and have a crossover with them. do either a two way or just solid midbass for your rear door speakers then do a small sub unless your wanting big boom. you can get away with a decent 5 channel amp for it or just go with a good 4 channel for your doors then do a separate mono block for the sub(s).

mikeyjm1

What this guy said. To ad to it. If you only go the mid bass in the rear route or don't care about fade control, one good 2 ohm stable amp can handle it all; 2 stereo channels for right and left and bridge the rear 2 channels for the sub.

Sypher

What's your opinion on Crutchfield's recommendation this time? This is what they suggested:

Crutchfield.com - Email Cart

mikeyjm1

Aren't your speakers in the doors? I would use that set to replace them. I think I have about he same but slightly older set. 6.5" fit nice and I just cut plates out of some scrap luan and sprayed them flat black to sink the tweeters in. All fits nice behind the door panels.

Did you get a new head unit and amplifier?
They'll play ok on a good quality aftermarket head but I'd recommend an amplifier.