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which route for a 6.0 build

Old Sep 4, 2006 | 05:48 PM
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Default which route for a 6.0 build

i have a buddy that has a 99 z71 sierra with a 5.3. it's supprisingly peppy but he wants to do a 6.0.

i'm trying to figure out the best way for him to go.

buy a used block and find a crank and add some forged rods and pistons which i have a line on a combo that comes with rings and rod bolts for 800 bucks (mahle). then put some worked 317 heads on it with a cam in the 220/220 range. use the intake and accesories off the 5.3. keep in mind, a ls2 timing chain, comp 918 springs, hardend pushrods and all that jazz will be going on this motor. we'll also need main bearings and probably cam bearings


or buy a shortblock, add a cam, springs and pushrods along with a timing chain and worked 317 heads. put all the other stuff from the 5.3 on it and run it.

now, route one will make a stronger engine but route two will be cheaper and yield similar results for less money right?

i'm thinking buy a short block cause there is a lot less headache and nickle and dime stuff to worry about. he can still add some forged pistons for a decent price.

tell me what yall think
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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if he is gonna put spray or boost on it I say got the bare block/build way.
If he is just gonna try and work with the 6.0 N/A performance and not put an FI to it the stock bottom end will be fine.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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For him if he doesnt want to really put a decent shot on it then a normal shortblock should be the ticket. Shoot me a pm where you found that piston/rod deal please.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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he has opted for the more costly way to do it. he is going to do a bare block build up. now he has to get up to pearl to pick up the block from ranwalk. should be a fun build. i get to spend someone elses money.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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That is always fun

You going to build it?
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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yea. not saying i am a master builder but i should be able to assemble it. ranwalk has the block that we are going to use. he said it was hydrolocked. either way were taking this block to the machine shop along with mine to inspect and all that stuff.

we will be going back with a stock crank. if anyone has one for around 100 bucks let me know. also, if he can get his money in time i want to get those worked 317's in the classified section. will save money in the long run.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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Looks like I need to get to work tearing down that engine. BTW, I will sell the crank out of it to if its not damaged.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ranwalk
Looks like I need to get to work tearing down that engine. BTW, I will sell the crank out of it to if its not damaged.
make me a good deal. btw, answer your phone.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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I suggest oyu pick up a Chiltons manual it has all the bearing tolerances in it and some helpful tips. Use a set of calipers and a dial bore gauge it is much more accurate than damn plastigauge. TurboGibbs can give you some helpful advice he taught me everything I know pretty much on building motors
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I suggest oyu pick up a Chiltons manual it has all the bearing tolerances in it and some helpful tips. Use a set of calipers and a dial bore gauge it is much more accurate than damn plastigauge. TurboGibbs can give you some helpful advice he taught me everything I know pretty much on building motors

i've done a few in my day. they all ran well. but yes i agree, the chiltons manual and a few new tools will be used. i wouldn't do it any other way. i don't want this to haunt me.
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